Tokyo’s late-night dining scene: BBQ izakayas that get livelier as the night goes on

Text and photos byHappy Yun

Lately, Yun has really been going all out posting Tokyo articles, haha. Who knew taking a stroll could spark such a strong urge to share? This Tokyo trip, unplanned as it was, led me to so many fascinating spots without even trying—it made me want to document everything as a map for future strolls. And thus, I found myself with an unstoppable urge to keep recording, haha. Today, let’s feature another lovely spot for an update!!

Calling this place a “late-night diner” is both right and wrong—how so? Well, some shops close pretty late, either because they’ve sold out or simply because the owner feels like calling it a day. This area is just that kind of charming little district.

The reason we ended up here was mainly to visit the Godzilla Hotel in Shinjuku![Japan, Tokyo] Godzilla sightings in Shinjuku Kabukicho—beware!! (Hotel Gracery Shinjuku) (Haha, the hotel actually has a name: Hotel Gracery Shinjuku.) We were in a rush to catch Godzilla’s 7 PM fire-breathing show, so we hurried past and agreed with friends to come explore this area after dinner before heading back to our respective hotels. Isn’t it funny how some of us might not cross paths back home in Taiwan, yet we end up having a happy reunion in a foreign land like Tokyo? It felt pretty special!!

After watching Godzilla’s performance, we had a quick bite at Matsuya and then headed here. It seemed even livelier than before dinner—the crowd had grown even bigger. There were Japanese people, foreigners, Chinese… What drew everyone to this alleyway? The aroma? The unique atmosphere? Probably both.

Stretching along the west entrance railing is a row of taverns housed in the uniquely structured “nagaya” (long-house) buildings. This izakaya street started around 1946, shortly after the war. Due to material shortages and strict rationing, many BBQ shops sprouted up here, catering to foreign troops by selling off cuts like beef and pork offal. It’s somewhat similar to how Sendai’s “beef tongue” cuisine developed. Since most foreigners didn’t eat offal, locals had to get creative, turning these ingredients into delicious, nutritious dishes during those lean times. Gradually, more such BBQ shops gathered here, later joined by others offering chicken and other varieties.

Nowadays, in Tokyo’s bustling, well-supplied era, this area has become a nostalgic taste of the past, attracting many tourists.

The tightly packed shops along the alleys are mostly two-story buildings with cramped storefronts. The first floor features a counter where the owner interacts directly with customers, and right at the entrance is the grill where food is cooked. A narrow staircase behind leads upstairs. The tight space upstairs still manages to fit a few tables. This kind of atmosphere makes people want to stay for another drink, paired with grilled meat.

We picked a shop with a nice vibe (and available seats) and headed upstairs to soak in the distinctive charm of Shinjuku West Exit Omoide Yokocho’s izakayas. The grill girl at the entrance was busy cooking while also handling payments. Right then, a group of foreigners came downstairs from upstairs, and one of them, noticing how cute she was, asked in English if they could take a photo with her because it was a friend’s birthday.

She smiled shyly and said yes—it felt almost like a movie line. After seeing off the foreigners, she cleaned up and it was our turn to go up. We’d thought she was Japanese, but turns out she started speaking Chinese to us, haha. Pros and cons, right?

At least we didn’t have to worry about ordering—but the downside was, it felt a little less “Japanese.” The upstairs menu had Chinese too, haha, making ordering even easier.

But we still asked her to recommend some good dishes. In many traditional Japanese izakayas, they actually charge a small dish fee (around 300–500 yen), regardless of whether you order it or not. That’s a fixed cost—they’ll serve you edamame or some pickled sides meant for drinking, and you pay for it whether you eat it or not.

● 《ET News Cloud》 reminds you: Don’t drink and drive. Don’t drive after drinking.

Haha, kind of mandatory, right? Usually, this can cause disputes for travelers when paying the bill, so now many izakayas will inform you of this policy in English or Chinese. Either way, you’ll be charged upfront.

We ordered beer and a few simple grilled items—not a huge amount, but it still came to several thousand yen, haha. But hey, we were here for the vibe, and it’s rare to have friends along. Honestly, izakayas like this feel a bit odd if you’re alone—like you’re some lonely soul. Turns out, travel sometimes really does need company.

Tonight, the food wasn’t the highlight—the company and the atmosphere left a deep impression. So happy that thanks to the convenience of the internet, we who rarely meet in Taipei could gather together. Thanks to Sanxiao A, Xiao V, and her husband for giving Yun the chance to experience another side of Tokyo.

.........................................................More Tokyo strolling adventures to come

Shinjuku West Exit Omoide Yokocho Izakayas (Shinjuku West Exit Reminiscence Alley Izakayas)
Shinjuku West Exit Shopping Street Promotion Association: http://shinjuku-omoide.com/
Chinese description: http://www.gotokyo.org/tc/kanko/shinjuku/spot/s_166.html
Address: 160-0023 Shinjuku City, Nishi-Shinjuku 1-chome
How to get there: By train—walk from the west exit of JR, subway, Odakyu Line, or Keio Line “Shinjuku” Station.

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