Refreshing kaiseki in Tokyo: A Michelin-starred vegetarian haven by the "God of Eastern Vegetarian Cuisine"

Photos & Text /Excerpted from 《Tokyo Gourmet Selection: 42 Masterpiece Restaurants by Skilled Chefs》 by Joanne Huang, published by Style流行风

Aoyama Esaki
Ezaki
Eisuke Ezaki

Michelin Three Stars ★★★
~The God of Eastern Vegetarian Cuisine~

If France’s three-Michelin-star chef Alain Passard of L’Arpége is hailed as the god of vegetarian French cuisine, then Japan’s Chef Eisuke Ezaki deserves to be called the god of Eastern vegetarian cuisine. Like Alain Passard, Chef Ezaki has elevated vegetables from their usual role as “side dishes” to the starring role, dedicating years to perfecting how to extract the very essence of vegetables—resulting in the unique, light, healthy, and delicious Japanese kaiseki that defines “Ezaki” (青山 えさき).

Now 52 years old, Chef Ezaki trained at renowned Japanese restaurants in both Tokyo and Kyoto for over a decade before establishing his own place in Tokyo in 1994. He named it “Ezaki” (青山 えさき) after the district and himself. For five consecutive years up to now, it has retained its prestigious three-Michelin-star rating. This year marks the 21st anniversary of the restaurant’s opening, and Chef Ezaki’s techniques and methods in cooking fish and vegetables are absolutely worth experiencing firsthand and savoring in detail.

Located in a quiet residential alley in Sangenjaya 3-chome, about a five-minute walk from the Eiden Omotesandō subway exit, the entrance to “Ezaki” is not very eye-catching. Its low-key little sign often makes visitors wander around the building for a while before finding it. Going down the stairs leads you to the restaurant’s basement entrance. The interior design and décor are very simple and unadorned, reflecting the chef’s philosophy of letting the ingredients shine without excessive seasoning.

Upon being seated, a handwritten menu by Chef Ezaki is already placed on the table—and it’s even signed, so guests can take it home as a souvenir. The menu changes monthly, featuring six to eight courses from appetizers to dessert, including various seafood, fish, and, of course, the chef’s specialty vegetable dishes. My favorite part? Guests never leave feeling overly full or greasy, but rather with a satisfying and healthy feeling, happily concluding this Michelin-worthy journey of seafood and vegetables.

The reason why “Ezaki-style Japanese cuisine” has captivated food lovers both locally and abroad is largely due to Chef Ezaki’s strict selection of ingredients and the healthy cooking philosophy he developed over years of training. All the vegetables used at the restaurant come from a farm in Yamanashi Prefecture designated by the chef, where they are grown using natural farming methods. The farm adheres to a “no fertilizer, no compost, no pesticides” policy, allowing all organic vegetables to absorb the full essence of the earth. Then, through Chef Ezaki’s traditional Japanese cooking techniques, the natural flavors of these ingredients are brought out and presented to diners. Although there are no rare imported ingredients or flashy cooking techniques, these seemingly simple and modest dishes actually allow one to truly taste the essence of the ingredients and be deeply moved. Each time a dish is served, the waitstaff carefully explains the origin and preparation method of every ingredient on the plate. Sometimes, they even bring the whole vegetable to the table for everyone to see, hoping diners will appreciate the restaurant’s commitment to using 100% safe, harmless ingredients.

Aside from vegetables, the other star of the dishes at “Ezaki” — which does not use any meat — is seafood. Popular items on the menu such as shrimp, lobster, shellfish, and various types of fish are all carefully selected natural ingredients. Adhering to the principle of not compromising the original flavor of the ingredients, they are paired with different vegetables and sauces to offer a delicate interplay of sweet, sour, bitter, and spicy flavors in each bite. One of the most popular dishes is probably the “Hokkaido Kinki,” where the freshly caught fish is simmered slowly in broth, head and tail included, resulting in tender, sweet flesh. This light yet delicious flavor is something you won’t find elsewhere. At the end of the set meal, the restaurant also serves organic coffee or herbal tea made from ten kinds of Japanese wild grasses, providing a healthy finish to the organic dining experience.

Joanne’s Foodie Whisper
Reservation Tip: For a three-Michelin-star restaurant, “Ezaki” is quite reasonably priced, which makes it very hard to get a reservation. Saturday lunch slots are especially difficult to book— it’s recommended to start calling at least a month in advance.
Chef Ezaki has compiled some of his own recipes and basic cooking methods from his developed “Ezaki-style” Japanese cuisine into a book titled 『お料理手ほどき－えさき流日本料理』 (Cooking Guide: Ezaki-Style Japanese Cuisine), published in 2009. Those interested can check it out.

Shop Information
Phone: 03-3408-5056
Address: Hills Aoyama B1, 3-39-9 Jingumae, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo
Nearest Subway Station: Ginza Line “Omotesandō Station”
Business Hours: Weekdays & Saturdays 18:00–23:00 (last order 21:30); Saturdays (Lunch) 12:00–15:00 (last order 13:30) *Lunch only available on Saturdays
Closed: Sundays and public holidays
Seats: 22 seats (4 at the counter, 2–4 in 2 private rooms, 10 in the main hall)
Prices: Lunch set ¥5,500, Dinner set ¥11,000–¥14,000
Website:http://www.aoyamaesaki.net