Taiwanese flavors at Vancouver Night Market? Try stinky tofu and taro ball tofu pudding to cure homesickness

Text & Photos /Papa Seahorse

In the sweltering North American summer, nothing beats a bowl of chilled Taiwanese-style tofu pudding paired with soft, chewy taro balls. The refreshing sensation mixed with the long-missed taste of home is a flavor that brings a smile to any expat’s face when reminiscing late at night.

Vancouver, a hub for immigrants, has this unique advantage. Craving Indian food? A trip to Little India is a sure bet. Want sushi? Most commercial districts have at least one or two Japanese restaurants. In the mood for Taiwanese street snacks? Head to Richmond’s summer night market!

Perhaps “night markets” hold a special allure in markets teeming with both locals and expats. Two similarly themed night markets are less than a five-minute drive apart, competing in Richmond—one to the east (International Summer Night Market) and one to the west (Richmond Summer Night Market). The two are largely similar, but I opted for the more established and less crowded “International Summer Night Market.” Though the twin-like markets look strikingly alike, a casual stroll reveals some differences in stalls and offerings. At the International Summer Night Market, besides signature snacks, Taiwanese flavors are a major highlight!

The most jaw-dropping attraction is the fancy cotton candy. What used to be ordinary, roadside-made traditional cotton candy transforms, under the hands of young boss Mr. Xie, into a 60-centimeter-wide, vibrant, flower-like spectacle. Online research shows that Mr. Xie has dedicated himself to mastering cotton candy blooming techniques, expanding from single-color to six-layered hues—reportedly unmatched across North America. Holding a bouquet of rainbow-hued cotton candy captures everyone’s eyes and makes for a great icebreaker!

Northern Taiwan is famous for its “Jiufen Grandma’s Taro Balls,” but Vancouver’s night market has Soy Boy. Who still handcrafts tofu pudding using agar for a refreshing and healthy twist these days? The boss is a young tech industry worker who loves making his own Taiwanese desserts. Visit his stall, and you’ll find purple sweet potato yam balls, taro balls, and yellow tapioca pearls—all bursting with unique flavors.

Stinky tofu is rare in Vancouver due to its pungent smell. While the stinky tofu from Lukang Old Street at the International Summer Night Market isn’t quite as authentic in aroma, compared to the “fake stinky tofu (which is actually just fried tofu)” served at typical Chinese restaurants, it takes a big step closer to the “real deal” with its garlic soy sauce topping. Fans of Taiwanese sausages will find this sweet-and-savory version reminiscent of Taiwan’s bustling street sausage stalls with their crackling dice sounds and smoky aroma. The meat is firm, with a perfect lean-to-fat ratio, easily outshining supermarket-bought Taiwanese sausages.

Besides these Taiwanese favorites, carnivore-friendly Papa Seahorse also recommends skewers from Xinjiang’s Afanti and chicken strips from Chicken’s Breading Fan. Afanti’s cumin flavor wafts as strongly as the grill smoke—detectable even ten meters away. The meat is flavorful yet tender. Chicken’s Breading Fan tries to stand out by serving fried chicken strips atop popcorn—an eye-catching presentation. But upon tasting, the combo feels unnecessary—the chicken strips are indeed juicy and flavorful, but the popcorn adds nothing and might be better left out.

As for seafood, the two grilled squid stalls at the International Summer Night Market (Lao Er Teppanyaki Squid and Good Taste Squid BBQ) serve fresh squid without the chemical aftertaste often found in Taiwanese night market versions. But without the competition from Richmond Summer Night Market’s “whole fish” stall, this market’s seafood options feel somewhat limited.

Hurricane Potato Fries, popular across Western night markets, are almost always seen in the hands of groups walking and snacking. Equally fun but a fresh twist, Hurricane Zucchini Fries—made by skewering zucchini instead of potatoes—are crispy and offer a veggie boost amidst junk food. Moms concerned about unhealthy snacks might actually approve.

For seasoning enthusiasts, Mr. & Mrs. Popcorn offers a variety of shake-on flavors, moving popcorn beyond just sweet or salty. Those wanting to elevate their snack game can try truffle flavor, instantly upgrading the popcorn experience. JJ’s Hot Cobs’ grilled corn is unremarkable, but it comes with up to 15 seasoning options, allowing you to customize your corn with as many flavors as you like.

Time for dessert? CoCoRo’s fried Oreos are a fun twist, especially when paired with ice cream—a mischievous eater might call it a “five-flavor firestorm.” Alberta-style scallion pancakes, touted as a new import from a neighboring province, are bold in flavor, but drizzling sweet-and-spicy syrup on savory pancakes just isn’t my thing. However, their fried banana rolls are right up my alley—hot, crispy pancakes wrapped around soft banana mash, sprinkled with powdered sugar. It’s easily the dessert champion of the night market.

Don’t forget your wallet. Vancouver night market meals aren’t cheap, typically starting at $5 per dish. Unless you’ve pre-eaten at home, bringing at least 50–100 CAD is wise if you plan to sample freely.

The International Summer Night Market
Website: www.summernightmarket.org
Address: 12631 Vulcan Way Richmond, BC V6V 1J7
Hours: Fri & Sat: 6PM ~ 11PM, Sun: 6PM ~10PM

Papa Seahorse
Air sign Gemini male, worked as a senior marketing and PR executive for multinational corporations before age 45; moved to Canada afterward. Playing the role of a father to two teenage sons amid foreign springs, summers, autumns, and winters, while documenting life in Vancouver.
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