
▲ Freshly fried "Chongdi" fritters at Shizi Market.
Reported and photographed by Yu Jiayun / Matsu
To understand the most traditional eating habits of a place, having breakfast with the locals often reveals clues—especially outside major cities, where traditional markets are arguably the most representative "essence zones." Matsu, located in northern Taiwan, is no exception. Historically reliant on fishing, Matsu has developed many distinctive breakfast items thanks to its abundant seafood, as well as snacks that even many people on Taiwan’s main island have never heard of. All of these can be found at Shizi Market in Nangan, Matsu.

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Located in Jieshou Village, Shizi Market is a highly local traditional market. In addition to vegetables grown by local residents and various fresh seafood, the market also offers some local snacks rarely seen in Taiwan, which are also common breakfast items for locals. Native Matsu residents say that Dingbianhu, roushan (meat dumplings), and oyster fritters from Shizi Market are their usual breakfast choices. Although they may look somewhat similar to Taiwanese snacks at first glance, their preparation methods and ingredients are quite different—you’ll know the difference once you try them.

▲ Roushan are also called meat dumplings.
The famous Dingbianhu in the market comes from "A-Mei’s Shop." Although Dingbianhu and Dingbiancuo may look somewhat similar, their flavors and textures are quite different. The Dingbianhu here is thick but becomes soft and tender with just a gentle bite. The broth is rich and thick, with added white croaker, winter melon, and black fungus, offering a refreshing yet filling taste. Additionally, the shop’s roushan soup is also very characteristic of Matsu—the outer skin of the roushan is crispy yet chewy, and the meat filling has a more fragrant taste than commercially frozen roushan, with a sweet and savory broth.

▲ Freshly made Dingbianhu fills the air with aroma.

▲ Smooth and tender Dingbianhu.

▲ Roushan are made with meat wrapped in translucent, pounded dough.
Besides Dingbianhu, there’s also a special stall selling "Chongdi" fritters. The vendor explains that "Chongdi" fritters were originally oyster-filled fritters, but due to insufficient oyster production in recent years, the filling has been changed to egg and meat, along with glass noodles and vegetables. The result is a crispy exterior wrapping juicy meat and a whole, firm egg—offering a unique flavor.

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Aside from the snacks at Shizi Market, Matsu also has another must-try popular dish. Hidden in a small alley, Wanjiaxiang Second Branch has a bold sign that reads "Dog Noodles," which raises curiosity and questions. Upon asking, you’ll learn that "dog noodles" actually refers to homemade noodles—the quirky name comes from the Matsu accent for the word "noodle stick." The handmade noodles and flat meat dumplings (bianrou) at Wanjiaxiang are all made by hand. The noodles are chewy, paired with the shop’s signature XO sauce that’s spicy and flavorful. The bianrou are essentially what people commonly know as wontons, but Matsu’s version has thinner wrappers and a more pronounced meat aroma. Drizzling some glutinous rice vinegar into the soup is the most authentic way to enjoy it.

▲ A serving of dog noodles is a Matsu local’s breakfast.

▲ Handmade flat meat dumplings.
Shizi Market
Jieshou Village, Nangan Township, Lienchiang County (currently a temporary market)
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