Menlongze Peak

　　Introduction       Menlongze Peak, also known as "Qogoru," stands at an elevation of 7,175 meters. It is located in the eastern section of the Himalayas, within the territory of Tingri County, Tibet. To its east lies Cho Oyu, and to its west is Qierengma Peak (elevation 7,134 meters, also known as Gauri Sankar in Nepal). The surrounding area features over ten other snow-capped peaks all exceeding 6,000 meters in elevation.       Menlongze Peak is steep and rugged, with its main summit shaped like a pyramidal cone. The peak is covered in perennial glaciers and riddled with ice chutes. It has five main ridges: the northeast ridge, southeast ridge, south ridge, southwest ridge, and northwest ridge — all are knife-edged. Between these ridges are numerous valleys where many modern glaciers have developed. The main glacier is the Kongburebsang Glacier on the southern side. Approximately two kilometers to the west lies Menlongze II Peak, which stands at 7,021 meters.

　　Climatic Features

　　      Influenced by the warm, moist air currents from the Indian Ocean, the Menlongze Peak region experiences a humid climate with frequent rain and snow. The Rongxia River Valley to the west is covered with dense primeval forests and boasts abundant animal and plant resources. However, due to the treacherous and complex routes to the summit, frequent avalanches and snowslides, as well as frequent lightning strikes, this peak — though not extremely high in elevation — remains an unconquered virgin peak.       Only Menlongze II Peak was finally conquered in May 1988 by two members of a British climbing team, including Bonington. Snowfall is heavy in this area from November to March each year, making access very difficult. Heavy rain and lightning storms are common from June to July. Typically, the best climbing window is between September and October, or April and May.   　    Transportation           From Tingri County, a 100-kilometer drive by car leads to Changbujian in the Rongxia River Valley. In spring, when the mountains are blocked by snow and ice, vehicles can only reach Bangsi River, a distance of 40 kilometers. From there, one can walk south along the Jialabula Glacier to Mugu, cross the 5,411-meter-high Fula Pass into the Rongxia River Valley, and then descend 24 kilometers along the valley to reach the Bashup Base Camp on the southwestern side of Menlongze Peak, which sits at an elevation of 4,700 meters.

　　 Shigatse, Tibet