The temple was originally built during the Zhenguan period of the Tang Dynasty (627–649 AD), initially called “Chaoyang Chan Monastery.” It was once a thriving religious site with numerous worshippers and around 800 resident monks. The *Old Book of Tang* records that it, along with Niutou Temple in Mian County and Qianming Temple in Nanzheng, was among the three most prominent temples in southern Shaanxi and enjoyed great fame. Legend has it that during the Ming Dynasty’s Wanli era, Empress Xiao became a nun here, fell ill, and died, and was buried on the site—now known as Huanggu Tomb. In her honor, Wanli’s mother, Empress Dowager Xiaoding Li, bestowed upon Chaoyang Monastery “678 volumes of Buddhist scriptures and provided financial and grain donations over many years.” To this day, the “Imperial Stele” remains. In 1983, Yunwu Temple and Huanggu Tomb were designated as county-level key cultural heritage sites for protection. Every spring and summer, visitors flock here for sightseeing and to escape the heat.
During the Cultural Revolution, Yunwu Temple was completely destroyed as part of the campaign to “smash the four olds.” In 1991, local government and residents pooled funds to rebuild the Great Buddha’s Hall, Huanggu Palace, and eight rooms on the original site. Two side wing rooms remain under repair due to ongoing fundraising. Since its restoration, devotees from Mian County and even neighboring counties and cities have braved rugged mountain paths to worship and admire the scenery. When you are in the Yunwu Temple mountains—wading through dense forests, crossing streams, climbing perilous trails, bathing in nature, birdwatching, taking photos, reading, enjoying leisure activities, practicing qigong, or keeping fit—you enter a blissful state of mind. This is indeed a rare destination for “spring outings, summer retreats, autumn sightseeing, and winter hunting.”
Currently, there are over ten monks and lay practitioners managing the temple, who also accommodate hikers, photography enthusiasts, and tourists. Otherwise, as there are no accommodations or dining options within dozens of miles, you’d be left hungry. However, if you stay and eat at the temple, you’ll have vegetarian meals and sleep on simple “wandering mats.” Shedding some of that excess weight around your “general’s belly” isn’t such a bad idea, heh...
The scenery of Yunwu Temple can be described as “lofty mountains and flowing waters,” with fresh, pleasant air. As you walk along, you’re accompanied by singing birds and the murmuring sound of streams leading you to the “Killer Flat” waterfall, where “the finest views lie amid the most perilous peaks”! But be warned: “the journey is harder than ascending to heaven.” Those without stamina, perseverance, or endurance should take note. You’ll also need ample courage and knowledge of outdoor activities; otherwise, in an environment where “you hear voices but see no one,” you might just scare yourself silly.
The typical route from Hanzhong to Yunwu Temple is: Hanzhong – Cuijiagou – National Highway 108 – Xinjiezhen Town in Mian County – Heitanzi – Yunwu Temple. The total distance is about 55 km, with a drive of approximately two and a half hours.
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