Yoning Monastery

　　 Yoning Monastery is situated in Wushi Township, southeast of Huzhu Tu Autonomous County, approximately 50 kilometers from Xining. It is one of the major Tibetan Buddhist monasteries in Qinghai and is known as the “Mother of All Monasteries on the North Bank of the Huangshui River.” The monastery was prophesied by the Third Dalai Lama, commissioned by the Fourth Dalai Lama and the Fourth Panchen Lama, and constructed in the 32nd year of the Wanli era of the Ming Dynasty (1604) with the assistance of local Tibetan, Mongolian, and Tu chieftains. Situated at an altitude of over 2,500 meters, it covers an area of six hectares and includes seven halls. Due to its location in the Gulong region, it is also referred to as “Gulong Monastery.” During the Qing Dynasty’s Kangxi era, the monastery was grand in scale, comprising over 2,000 courtyards including main and minor scripture halls and monks’ quarters, with a monastic population of more than 7,700. It housed four colleges dedicated to exoteric Buddhism, Kalachakra, esoteric Buddhism, and medical studies, making it the largest monastery in the northern Huangshui region of Qinghai. It had 49 affiliated monasteries, earning it the title “Mother of All Northern Huangshui Monasteries.” In the second year of the Yongzheng reign (1724), the monastery was burned down by Qing troops due to its involvement in the Lobsang Danjin anti-Qing rebellion. In the tenth year of Yongzheng (1732), Emperor Yongzheng issued an edict for its restoration and bestowed upon it the name “Yoning Monastery.” Nestled against mountains and near water, Yoning Monastery enjoys a serene environment and boasts a majestic presence, with its structures integrated seamlessly into the surrounding hills. A towering stupa stands prominently in front of the monastery. Upon entering, visitors first encounter the grand scripture hall. Following mountain paths upward leads to various halls halfway up the hillside, which are embedded into the steep cliffs, featuring unique designs and spectacular views. From a distance, lush green pines and cypresses rise majestically, with the monastery nestled beautifully among the mountains. The interplay of mountain ridges, ancient trees, and halls adds to the monastery’s solemn, peaceful, and tranquil atmosphere. The architectural style of Yoning Monastery blends the artistic traditions of the Tu, Tibetan, Mongolian, and Han peoples, representing a crystallization of multi-ethnic artistry. The sculptures and paintings within the halls hold significant artistic value. Walking slowly up the stone steps feels like being enveloped in mist, giving a sensation of floating above the earthly realm. Historically, Yoning Monastery was renowned for its strong scholarly tradition and produced many eminent monks, gaining fame both in China and abroad. Notable figures include the Third Zhangjia (Lobsang Rolpai Dorje), the Third Tuguan (Lobsang Chokyi Nyima), and the Third Songba (Yeshe Paljor), all of whom were highly respected scholars. Due to its distinguished lineage of eminent monks, the monastery enjoyed great prestige and is now revered as a sacred site by the Tu people. Originally, Yoning Monastery had over 20 high-ranking lamas, including the five major “nang” lamas: Tuguan, Zhangjia, Songbu, Quezang, and Wangfo. During the Qing Dynasty, these were granted the title of Hutuktu, with the Zhangjia Lama serving as the leader of the Qinghai-based Hutuktus residing in Beijing. He was honored as the Great State Preceptor and, along with the Dalai Lama, Panchen Lama, and Jebtsundamba, was referred to as one of the “Four Saints of the Yellow Sect.” Yoning Monastery has historically maintained a strong tradition of scriptural study, producing a large number of eminent monks and scholars renowned both domestically and internationally. It is recognized by the religious community as a center for Buddhist studies. In particular, the Third Zhangjia, Tuguan, and Songbu were highly learned individuals with extensive writings, making profound contributions to Tibetan Buddhism, history, medicine, Tibetan studies, and calendrical science. They are notable figures in China’s Buddhist circles and in the history of Qinghai. At one point in history, Yoning Monastery’s influence even surpassed that of Ta’er Monastery. However, during the Cultural Revolution, this famous monastery was reduced to ashes. Although the main and minor scripture halls have since been partially restored, their scale remains far smaller than before, and nearly all cultural relics have been lost. Nevertheless, due to its historical significance, it continues to attract a steady stream of visitors from both home and abroad. About two kilometers northeast of Yoning Monastery lies Tiandian Monastery. Hidden behind rocky peaks and pine trees, it is not easily visible until one climbs a steep slope and passes through a stone cave gate, where the monastery suddenly comes into view. It is said to be the place where monks practiced Buddhist teachings when the founder of Yoning Monastery, the Gelong Lama, first established Gulong Monastery. The area features bizarre karst limestone formations and is steeped in numerous Buddhist myths and legends. For instance, the 18 small peaks standing in front of the monastery are said to represent the 18 arhats brought from Tibet by the Gelong Lama. The surrounding mountains of Yoning Monastery are majestic and covered with dense forests. The valley at the foot of the mountain features flat terrain with fertile soil, inhabited by the simple and kind-hearted Tu people. This blends the religious sanctuary, beautiful natural scenery, and ethnic culture into one, making it a very attractive tourist destination within Qinghai Province. Best travel seasons: Four major Buddhist festivals are held annually—during the first, fourth, sixth, and twelfth lunar months—when the monastery becomes particularly lively.