Turning northward from Maliantan, you will arrive at the most famous “Little Three Gorges” within Zhugou Gorge. These Little Three Gorges are known in Tibetan historical records as the three passes guarded by the “Fierce Tiger, Azure Dragon, Rakshasa, and Vajra,” which lead to the sacred “Heavenly Realm” of the East Sea.
The three gorges are layered and ringed like barriers. A river from the East Sea bursts forth through the knife-cut-like canyons, exuding an intriguing mystery that gives rise to an ancient Tibetan myth. Now, let our hearts calm with this clear stream, and with reverence, step into the “Three Gorges” and into the stories of myths and legends.
Gesar’s Hidden Sword Cave
Located on the cliffs of the first gorge in the East Sea Grand Canyon scenic area. This cliff, with its rare miracle and miraculous craftsmanship rarely seen on the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, inspires awe. The left peak resembles a towering, fierce tiger, radiating an intimidating and majestic presence. The right peak is like a thousand-foot iron wall or ten-thousand-zhang bronze bastion, deterring any attempt to pass and leaving one with no way through. This is the gateway guarded by the “Fierce Tiger.” The smooth, mirror-like cliff face, from a modern sports perspective, is an ideal site for hosting rock climbing competitions, awaiting those with the courage to risk a tiger’s bite to scale this iron-like barrier.
Gesar’s Hidden Sword Cave is a natural karst cave, divided into upper and lower levels, winding and secluded, with uniquely formed chambers and hanging stalactites that create a surreal and colorful scene. It is said to be the place where King Gesar hid his divine sword during his southern and northern military campaigns, subduing demons and eliminating evils for the people. In addition to the Hidden Sword Cave, there are also the Chessboard Stone of King Gesar and the Footprint Stone of the Heavenly General Erlang, among other traces of deities and legends. This is a paradise for rock climbers.
Scattered across the summit of Zake Mountain in the northeast of the Three Gorges are numerous caves. Among them is a massive cave, locally called the Dragon Cave. According to locals who have entered the northern cave, it is about half the size of a basketball court, with scattered bones of wild animals on the ground and glittering stalactites hanging from the ceiling. These stalactites emit a fragrant aroma resembling herbs and are believed to have healing properties, often collected by locals to place under home Buddhist shrines for worship and healing. After advancing twenty or thirty meters, the cave suddenly drops off into midair, connecting to another level of the cave below. This labyrinth-like cave seems to be nested layer upon layer, with unknown chambers and unclear whether it leads to an underground cavern or a dragon palace. Yet a cool, damp draft rises from the cave’s depths, accompanied by the faint sound of flowing water. This is an age-old mystery, a puzzle left by nature. These peculiar natural phenomena are all concentrated in one place, and their significance seems to be linked to the East Sea.
The Second Gorge faces northeast, with steep, undulating ridges twisting like dragons. On the stone walls, naturally formed Tibetan letters resembling esoteric Buddhist mantras can be found. Religious stories say, “the Azure Dragon coils, and the mantras bestow blessings.” The imposing iron gate, guarded by coiling dragons and crouching tigers, deters even demons from entering. Moreover, there is an even stricter gate within. The First Gorge is also known as the “Inner Gate.” The left cliff resembles an angry Vajra, gazing proudly and standing firm. The right cliff looks like a demon mother casting spells, captivating and terrifying. This is the final pass guarded by the “Dakinis” and “Rakshasas.” Passing through this gate leads into the “Inner Gate” of the sacred realm. Only those who can overcome these three mighty gates and withstand these three trials may enter the sacred realm—so who is worthy? Tibetan Buddhism uses these natural gorges to symbolically represent the three gateways to the divine realm. The same logic applies: to attain the true path, one must climb and pass through gates, traversing the necessary journey to reach the ideal state.
Passing through the three gates and entering the Inner Gate leads to a highland summer pasture blooming with wildflowers, filled with shepherds’ songs and cooking smoke. From here, you can see the majestic presence of Baigeta Mountain, whose “lofty peak towers a thousand zhang, drawing the eye as it spins.” In the morning light, it resembles an early imperial court, “where moonlight has just touched the immortal’s palm, and incense seems to float like dragons.” At dusk, when the light is clear and the setting sun shines obliquely, it looks like a pyramid built of layers of golden blocks—immensely solemn, silent, radiant, and spectacular, offering a sense of wonder and awe.
A Ballad of the Huare sings: “Like a white conch, Baigeta Mountain reaches toward the sky, its peak as if chasing the heavens, like a towering white conch tower. She is the crown of the Huare Tibetan region, the grand palace of the Supreme Joy Jewel, the mountain where white yaks roam, and the good stronghold of white argali sheep. Truly, she is crystal-white in the three winters, jade-green in the three summers, golden everywhere in the three autumns, and variegated like agate in the three springs.” Baigeta Mountain also has a magical natural phenomenon: loud shouting is forbidden atop the mountain in midsummer. Should one ignore the warning and shout loudly, dark clouds will soon gather, thunder roar, and torrential rain or hail pour down unexpectedly, catching you unprepared and frightening you to the core. Soon after, the clouds disperse and the sun shines brightly. No wonder devout believers kowtow in full-length prostrations to worship and pay homage.
Known as the sacred “Gazha Jiu Zun” Mountain, Baigeta Mountain is recorded in Tibetan scriptures as having “a treasure atop its peak.” During the Republican era, someone discovered a silver pillar several zhang tall on this peak. When they later returned with tools to excavate it, not only did they fail to find the silver pillar, but they also fell into a sacred lake in the fog and disappeared. This is a well-documented local tale. What is credible is that this mountain is indeed a treasure-laden sacred mountain—entirely, the Sigu Valley is a canyon paved with gold at its base. It was once the site of the discovery of a miraculous gold nugget weighing 7.6 kilograms, shaped like a mother and baby monkey. Many other treasures have also been found here, including Iceland spar, silver, and copper.
In a vision, a troop of soldiers clad in armor and helmets engage in fierce battle, locked in an intense struggle.
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