Suzhou Sweet and Sour Mandarin Fish (Songshu Guiyu)

Suzhou Sweet and Sour Mandarin Fish (Songshu Guiyu)

　　Suzhou is not only famous for its ancient gardens but also boasts many popular traditional delicacies. The Sweet and Sour Mandarin Fish from Song He Lou is one of them. The fame of this dish actually began with Emperor Qianlong’s memorable visit to the restaurant.

During one of his southern tours, Emperor Qianlong once made an incognito visit to Suzhou. It was early spring — peach blossoms were in full bloom, willows were green, birds were chirping, and flowers fragrant. People were out enjoying the countryside. Both inside and outside the city, visitors filled the streets. After viewing several scenic spots around the city and feeling tired and hungry, Qianlong spotted the Song He Lou restaurant on Guanqian Street and walked in. It happened that the owner of Song He Lou was busy preparing for his mother’s birthday banquet, and everyone in the restaurant was bustling about. After sitting for quite a while, a waiter finally came over. Seeing that Qianlong was dressed in plain cloth shoes covered with dirt, the waiter assumed he was a peasant and asked lazily, “What would you like to eat, sir?” Qianlong replied boldly, “Bring me whatever is good.” The waiter, thinking, Look at the way you’re dressed — what makes you think you deserve anything good? Can you even afford it? — casually brought over the cheapest and most basic dishes. When Qianlong saw the bland, tasteless food, he asked, “Don’t you have anything better?” The waiter responded irritably, “No.” Just then, Qianlong noticed a waiter carrying out a large plate of fragrant, vibrantly colored Sweet and Sour Mandarin Fish from the kitchen. Pointing at the fish, Qianlong gestured for it to be brought to his table. The waiter sneered, “Sweet and Sour Mandarin Fish? Can you afford this?” In a fit of anger, Qianlong hurled his bowl of soup straight at the waiter’s face.

With a loud splash, an elderly man dressed in ordinary clothes entered the restaurant. He helped Qianlong sit down and whispered something to him. The commotion caught the attention of the restaurant owner, who hurried over to apologize. The elderly man then took out two silver ingots from his robe and asked the owner to quickly serve fine wine and delicious dishes. Though the two men were plainly dressed, their dignified bearing and generous gesture convinced the owner they were no ordinary guests. He swiftly prepared a table full of dishes, including the specially prepared Sweet and Sour Mandarin Fish, Crispy Rice Crust with Vegetables, and Fish Maw Soup — all originally intended for his mother’s birthday banquet. He also kept apologizing profusely. Qianlong was amazed by the Sweet and Sour Mandarin Fish — its head held high, tail fanned out, the fish glistening bright red. The flesh was tender, crispy, aromatic, with a hint of sweet and sour flavor. He thought even the imperial palace couldn’t make it this delicious, and he praised it repeatedly.

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Just then, the local prefect of Suzhou, having heard the news somehow, arrived with an entourage, waiting quietly outside the restaurant to welcome the emperor back to his residence. The restaurant staff then realized the true identity of their guest — it was Emperor Qianlong himself. They were both shocked and terrified. Fortunately, Qianlong had enjoyed his meal and had calmed down. Before leaving, he asked the restaurant owner about how the Sweet and Sour Mandarin Fish was made and even rewarded him with some silver. Overjoyed, the owner immediately put up a sign reading, “Created by Emperor Qianlong, a Suzhou cuisine masterpiece.” Later, during Qianlong’s second and third southern tours, he always visited Song He Lou and specifically ordered the Sweet and Sour Mandarin Fish. From then on, this dish became a classic and has been passed down to this day.

Preparation Method

Ingredients: One fresh mandarin fish (about 750g), 30g shrimp, 20g cooked bamboo shoot cubes, 15g shiitake mushroom cubes, 10g green peas, 20g Shaoxing wine, 8g salt, 10g sesame oil, 1000g lard (use 200g), 100g pork rib soup, 50g dry starch, 300g wet starch, 2g garlic, 10g scallion, 100g white vinegar, 100g tomato ketchup, 150g sugar.

Method: Clean the mandarin fish thoroughly. Slice off and split the fish head, gently flattening it. Cut open the fish body, remove the spine and rib bones, and score diamond-shaped patterns on the fish flesh.

Mix Shaoxing wine and salt in a bowl, spread evenly on the fish, and coat the fish with dry starch.

In a bowl, combine tomato ketchup, pork rib soup, sugar, white vinegar, Shaoxing wine, water starch, and salt, stirring into a sauce mixture.

Heat lard in a wok until 80% hot. Fold the two fillets of the fish backward so the tail resembles a squirrel’s tail. Holding the tail, deep-fry the fish for 20 minutes. Then add the fish head and fry until golden brown. Remove and arrange on a plate, putting the head in place to form a squirrel shape.

Heat some lard in the wok, sauté the shrimp until cooked, then remove and drain.

In the remaining lard, stir-fry chopped scallions, garlic, bamboo shoots, mushrooms, and green peas. Add pork rib soup and the sauce mixture, mix well, then add hot lard and sesame oil, stir again, and pour the mixture over the fish. Finally, sprinkle with cooked shrimp.

Features: Resembles a squirrel in shape, golden in color, crispy on the outside and tender inside, sweet with a tangy twist, deliciously fragrant and appetizing.