Mantis shrimp

Mantis shrimp

　　Mantis shrimp, scientifically known as Squilla. It has many local names, such as "pá xiā" (crawling shrimp) in the Northeast, "pí pí xiā" (pipi shrimp) in Beijing, and "xiā pá zi" (shrimp crawler) in Tianjin, Dalian, and Dandong. It is said that this creature lives on the seabed but is quite restless, often crawling aimlessly onto the shore at night to "attend moonlight dances," "enjoy buffets," "go on secret rendezvous," and even leaves dense "dance step" marks on the beach with its tail fans, hence the playful nickname "shrimp crawler."

　　　　Mantis shrimp is a nutritious and delicious seafood, known for its juicy, tender, and sweet meat that is soft and carries a particularly enticing umami flavor. Spring is its spawning season, making it the best time to eat (there’s also a autumn season, but the shrimp aren’t as plump). The only downside is that it has more shell than meat. Back when I was a kid, it wasn’t worth much—I remember when you could get 3 jin for just 10 yuan. Elders used to say that in the past, no one ate it; it was used for making manure. Nowadays, this season is when mantis shrimp is at its plumpest and most expensive. Plump and pricey—but this year in Dandong, the prices aren’t high, at just around 30 yuan per kilogram. Just look at those lively mantis shrimp in the markets, and you’ll know how fresh they are.

　　　　There are many ways to cook mantis shrimp: steamed, boiled, deep-fried, used in soups, made into sauces, stuffed in dumplings, or added to hot pot. Personally, I find boiling to be the most satisfying. First, wash the shrimp (which requires some skill when dealing with live, wriggling mantis shrimp), put them in a pot, add a little water, sprinkle in some salt, and bring it to a boil. Fresh mantis shrimp tastes incredibly delicious, even surpassing prawns or hawk's claw shrimp.

　　　　There’s also quite an art to eating mantis shrimp—how to get to the delicious meat hidden beneath its tough shell and spines is no small feat. There are three main methods: flipping the lid, removing the belly, or squeezing from the side. Flipping the lid is the slowest and most likely to cut your hands—even someone like me who’s eaten it for years can accidentally get pricked and bleed. Removing the belly requires slightly more skill—you have to peel off the belly skin while trying not to lose too much meat. As for the side squeeze, that’s the most advanced technique of all—using your teeth to squeeze the meat out. Without proper skill, your mouth will easily get pricked. Some may ask, if it’s so troublesome, who would bother using it in dumplings? Actually, it’s simple—just remove the head of a raw mantis shrimp, press it flat with a rolling pin, and the meat comes right out. The taste of dumplings made with it is absolutely delicious.

　　　　Finally, a reminder: if you’re not used to eating seafood or have a sensitive stomach, be sure to drink white liquor or eat garlic when having mantis shrimp, or else…

　　　　How to pick plump mantis shrimp?

　　　　When selecting mantis shrimp, remember to look and feel. First, choose female mantis shrimp—they have plenty of roe, a clear dark line along the middle of their back, and yellow tails. Second, go for shrimp with thick, meaty bodies. Gently squeeze the shrimp with your fingers; the ones that feel fuller are the better ones.