Steamed Flying Crab

Steamed Flying Crab

　　The history of crab consumption in China dates back a long time, with records found in *Yizhoushu·Wuhuijie* and *Rites of Zhou·Heavenly Officials·Chef*. Crabs are known to relax tendons, boost energy, aid digestion, improve appetite, unblock meridians, dispel heat, and dissolve blood stasis. This diverse family includes around 4,700 species worldwide and approximately 800 in China. Common types include the red-spotted guard crab, swimming crab, stream crab, fiddler crab, and hairy crab. Today, let’s talk about one of the more popular crabs—the flying crab, also known as the swimming crab, bayonet crab, or sea crab. In Dongdaihe, steamed flying crab is a beloved seafood dish. When steamed, the crab meat is snow-white, abundant, and tender, with a rich, creamy roe that tastes delicious. The meat from the two claw-like pincers is slightly sweet and stringy, while the bright, flavorful crab roe offers a unique taste. Female crabs, in particular, are especially prized when their red roe is plentiful.

　　In the golden autumn of October, as the morning sun rises slowly, its soft rays shimmer across the surface of the sea in Dongdaihe. Fishing boats returning from the sea are already docked at the harbor. Most of these boats have been out catching crabs from the Bohai Bay and return fully loaded. Waiting at the harbor are mostly family members of the fishermen or merchants. Once the boats dock, the waiting families help unload the catch. A successful haul can yield dozens of crates of crabs, and the fishermen often start sorting them right on the spot. There’s an art to selecting crabs, as size and gender greatly affect both taste and market price—female crabs, in particular, command a much higher price. After sorting, the crabs are either sent to seafood markets by merchants or directly delivered by the fishermen to nearby farm stays.

　　In the kitchens of Dongdaihe’s farm stays, there are specific requirements for selecting ingredients. Fresh flying crabs are essential. When choosing them, look at the raised ridges on the underside of the belly—if they’re red, the crab is plump; if white or black, the meat is likely sparse. You can also judge the crab’s fatness by gently squeezing its legs. Soft legs usually mean the meat has moved to the sides, indicating a sparse, possibly less fresh crab. Hard legs suggest a mature crab with ample meat. Crabs weighing over 400 grams are ideal. Check the “abdominal flap” as well: male crabs have a “pointed flap,” immature males are called “chafu zi,” and females have a “round flap.” Female crabs are generally preferred.

　　Once the ingredients are selected, it’s time to cook. Steamed flying crab in Dongdaihe doesn’t require elaborate seasonings—just the natural umami and delicate texture. Using a traditional farmhouse clay pot, add a small amount of water, light the firewood, and place about a dozen cleaned crabs in the pot, belly-side down. This prevents the crab roe from leaking out and makes it easier to eat. Sprinkle a little salt to enhance the flavor, cover the pot, and steam for 10–15 minutes after the water boils. Crabs are naturally salty and cold-blooded, and as scavengers, it’s best to eat them with a mixture of ginger and vinegar to counteract the chill and kill bacteria.

　　There’s also an art to eating steamed crabs. Start with the legs: remove all eight, snap them at the joints, and suck out the meat. Save the claws for last—they contain more meat and are easier to eat, and you can use them to scoop out the crab roe. Eating the crab roe is the highlight. Pry open the shell from the top, remove the crab’s lungs, heart, stomach, and intestines, then bend the body outward to squeeze out the roe. For female crabs, enjoy the rich, delicious roe; for males, savor the snowy white crab cream. There may also be roe left inside the shell—press down on the crab’s mouth to extract it, or use the remaining claws to scrape it out. Finally, eat the crab meat, which comes in tender, thread-like segments. Break the crab in half, place a side horizontally in your mouth, and bite open each segment to release the large, juicy pieces of meat. The experience is bursting with flavor, incredibly tender, and smooth—this exquisite delicacy is a must-try when visiting Dongdaihe.