Zhengning Gonghe Scallions

Zhengning Gonghe Scallions

　　Every autumn, when fruits are fragrant and harvests are in sight, the rural roads of Gonghe Town in Zhengning County bustle with vehicles loaded with scallions—big and small, bustling and endless, creating a lively scene. A gust of wind blows, carrying the refreshing aroma of scallions that intoxicates the senses. Witnessing the bountiful scallion harvest in the countryside naturally brings to mind the many virtues of scallions.

　　The "Chinese Dictionary" defines "scallion" as: "A perennial herbaceous plant with pungent leaves and stems, commonly used as a vegetable and seasoning." This aligns with the saying, "Scallions sting the nose, garlic stings the mouth, but only chili peppers truly sting beautifully," which aptly describes scallions as both a vegetable and a pungent ingredient.

　　The 2002 Supplement Edition of the "Modern Chinese Dictionary" defines "scallion" as: "A perennial herbaceous plant with cylindrical tubular leaves and a hollow center, round white bulbs, small white flowers, and black seeds. It is a common vegetable or seasoning." In other words, scallion leaves are long and round with a hollow center, while the scallion neck (locally called the scallion belly, or the underground part) is cylindrical and white. Locals believe that the deeper the furrows are dug for planting scallions and the more soil is added (also called "sandwich soil"), the thicker and longer the scallion necks will grow.

　　The 1977 edition of the "Cihai" (Sea of Words) defines "scallion" as: "A general term for plants in the scallion family, including varieties such as large scallions, shallots, and chives. It often specifically refers to large scallions. Scallion plants are rich in sugars, minerals, vitamins, and allicin, making them suitable for both culinary and medicinal use." This definition highlights the nutritional value of scallions. When young, both the leaves and necks are edible; when mature, the yellowed leaves are no longer eaten, and only the necks are consumed. Locals enjoy eating scallions raw—when hungry, they peel a long, thick scallion, grab a piece of flatbread, take a bite of the bread, then a bite of the scallion, savoring it with great relish, making onlookers salivate and yearn to eat. Diners describe it as incredibly delicious. If a meal includes a dish combining garlic, scallions, and chili peppers known as the "Three Kings," it further stimulates the appetite.

　　It seems the wonders of scallions are too numerous to fully describe. In addition to the qualities mentioned above, Gonghe Town’s scallions can also be summarized as having thick stems, tender and thick flesh, a spicy and crisp flavor, remaining buoyant when cooked in soup, not easily breaking even after prolonged boiling, and not drying out during long storage. As an essential seasoning in daily life, they are highly favored among all vegetables.

　　The main production area of Gonghe Town’s scallions is Pengyao Plain. Located by the Silang River, Pengyao Plain has limited flatland but abundant mountainous terrain. The mountain soil is of good quality, and scallions thrive in shady, moist, and low-lying areas—making the mountains an ideal match for scallion cultivation, a perfect combination of conditions. As the saying goes, everything has its ideal environment; it’s just a matter of finding the best fit. Gonghe scallions are a prime example of this harmony. When planting scallions, the people of Pengyao Plain first level small seedbeds, build up the edges, and ensure the interior is smooth and even. They apply ample farm manure, evenly and densely sow the scallion seeds, then cover them with thin plastic sheeting—this is called "raising scallion seedlings." They ventilate and water the seedlings on schedule. Once the seedlings grow to three or four inches tall, they are transplanted. Transplanting involves digging rows for the scallions, with row spacing determined by the terrain and kept uniform to facilitate soil application and create an aesthetically pleasing appearance. Especially in summer, standing in the scallion fields, one sees a vast expanse of lush green—described locally as "the lines are straight, and the appearance is neat." This is also a form of "artistic" creation by the people. When busy, they sweat in the fields; when idle, they stroll through the fields, finding endless joy and contentment. During harvest season, scallion farmers carefully dig up the scallions all day long, taking great care not to break them, to protect yield and sales. The harvested scallions are moved to front yards or back areas to dry, then sorted and tied into bundles after drying. With experience, bundling becomes second nature—even randomly grabbing a few scallions to tie results in bundles of nearly identical weight. The bundled scallions are then neatly arranged in shaded areas, waiting to be sold at the right price. Some who have seen the lush, vigorous, and delicious Pengyao Plain scallions have tried transplanting them elsewhere, but due to either technique or soil and water differences, the taste never quite matches the original.