Xi’an Zeng Gao (Steamed Glutinous Rice Cake)

Xi’an Zeng Gao

　　Zeng Gao is a specialty snack of Xi’an. The deep, large iron pot used to steam the cake was historically called a “zeng,” hence the name. This soft and delicate dessert is made by steaming glutinous rice, red beans, and red dates, filling the air with a rich aroma upon cooking. The bottom layer of white rice is tinted with date color, presenting a vibrant crimson hue, while the next layer of red beans takes on a coffee-like brown. Above that is a dark red layer of mashed red dates, topped finally with a sprinkling of bright green raisins—making for an appealing presentation. The texture is sticky, soft, sweet, and very filling, making it a common local food.

　　Zeng Gao is a traditional breakfast food in the Guanzhong region, made from glutinous rice and red dates as the main ingredients. It is known for its rich date fragrance and soft, sticky, sweet texture. In Xi’an, the most delicious Zeng Gao is made by Muslim vendors in Lianhu District. Among them, the “Southeast Asia Zeng Gao King” at the Muslim Quarter is especially famous.

　　Introduction

　　In Xi’an and the Guanzhong region, there is a widely loved, affordable, and traditional breakfast food called “Zeng Gao.” As the name suggests, it is a cake steamed in a “zeng.” The zeng is brown, the cake also turns brown from the dates, and the small, coarse ceramic bowl and glazed boat-like container are all brown. When eating, the harmonious colors are pleasing to the eye and bring a sense of comfort.

　　As the name implies, “Zeng Gao” is a “cake” steamed using a “zeng” with red dates and glutinous rice as the main ingredients. The rice and dates meld perfectly in this dessert, suitable for both young and old. It is highly nutritious, nourishing, vibrant in color, soft, sticky, sweet, richly fragrant, and enjoyable even after many meals. Its unique flavor stands out.

　　Zeng Gao is a local specialty snack from Lingbao. Legend has it that it was introduced from Shaanxi several hundred years ago. A “zeng” is a vessel with small holes at the bottom, which is why Zeng Gao is also called “Jing Gao.” It is said that the zeng already existed in the late primitive society, evolved into pottery versions during the Neolithic Age, developed into bronze-cast versions during the Shang and Zhou dynasties, turned into iron zengs after the advent of ironware, and in recent years, have even been made by welding tinplate. The best quality Zeng Gao is said to come from pottery zengs. The main ingredients of Zeng Gao are glutinous rice (traditionally Wuxi glutinous rice) and red dates (with Lingbao hairy dates being the best). The ratio is 10 kilograms of glutinous rice and 3 kilograms of red dates per pot. Soaking the rice, loading the zeng, adding water, and controlling the heat all involve strict requirements.

　　When steaming Zeng Gao, the zeng is placed over a large pot, water is added to the pot, and then the soaked glutinous rice and red dates are layered in the zeng. Specifically, a layer of red dates is spread first, then a layer of glutinous rice, alternating in this way for seven layers in total (three layers of rice, four layers of dates). After layering, a damp cloth and the pot lid are placed on top. The heat is turned high to bring the water to a boil, and once steam rises, the damp cloth is sprinkled with water—this is done three times. Finally, the cake is simmered over low heat for five to six hours until fully cooked.

　　Zeng Gao is excellent in both appearance and texture, with just the right firmness, soft sweetness, stickiness, and a rich taste. It is truly a great breakfast choice for winter and spring.

　　Production Process

　　Ingredients: The ingredients for Zeng Gao include 10 pounds of glutinous rice (traditionally Wuxi glutinous rice), 3 pounds of red dates (preferably Lingbao hairy dates), 30 pounds of water, and an appropriate amount of raisins.

　　The ratio is 10 kilograms of glutinous rice, 3 kilograms of red dates per pot, and strict requirements for soaking the rice, loading the zeng, adding water, and managing heat.

　　Method: There are four key steps to making Zeng Gao:

　　First, soak the rice—use glutinous rice and clean water, soak for half a day until the center of the rice is softened, rinse several times to remove foam, and drain the water.

　　Second, load the zeng—start with a layer of red dates and raisins, then the rice, layer by layer, with each successive layer thicker than the last, and finish with a top layer of red dates (candied dates) and raisins.

　　Third, control the fire—typically, use high heat for about two hours, then switch to low heat and steam for another five to six hours.

　　Fourth, add water—one is to add warm water to the red dates and rice inside the zeng to let them meld; the second is to add cold water through the vent of the large pot to generate steam that rises into the zeng.

　　This method results in Zeng Gao that is well-balanced in texture at each level, vibrant in color, sticky and sweet in taste, and absolutely delicious.

　　Key Production Points

　　The ingredients for Xi’an Zeng Gao are glutinous rice and red dates, in a ratio of 65% glutinous rice and 35% red dates. The preparation technique is quite unique, particularly in mastering the soaking of rice, loading the zeng, adding water, and managing the fire. The best Zeng Gao in Xi’an is made by Muslim vendors in Majia Shizi, Lianhu District. Making Zeng Gao requires skill not only in steaming but also in scooping, plating, and using a specialized spatula to blend the rice and dates so that red and white are beautifully contrasted. When plated, it resembles amber or smooth jade, highly appetizing. In the 1980s, the Xi’an municipal government awarded Wang Wenji, a master known for his exceptional skills and experience in making Zeng Gao, the technical title of “Zeng Gao Technician.”