Heyang Xue Mian

Heyang Xue Mian

　　“The oldest instant noodle in China”: Heyang Xue Mian

　　Xue Mian is a unique local specialty food from Heyang, Shaanxi. It’s quite famous both in Heyang and in the eastern part of Shaanxi (known as Dongfu). The local saying “If you haven’t eaten Xue Mian or watched a Xian (local opera) performance, you haven’t really been to Heyang County” further highlights how important Xue Mian is in the lives of the locals.

　　The Origin of Xue Mian

　　Legend has it that Xue Mian was created by Han Xin, the Marquis of Huaiyin during the Western Han Dynasty, making it over 2,000 years old — hence its title as “the oldest instant noodle in China.” In the early Han Dynasty, Wei King Bao rebelled against the Han. Han Xin was ordered to lead troops to suppress the rebellion and planned to cross the river at Xiayang in Qiaochuan. Cooking meals openly would have allowed enemy forces to estimate troop strength based on the amount of smoke and fire — a major military taboo. To solve his soldiers’ dining problem, Han Xin ordered large pancakes made from locally abundant buckwheat, which were distributed to the soldiers. They could simply soak them in hot water for a quick and convenient meal, playing an important role in the war’s success. The character “踅” (xué) means “to turn around,” and is an ideogram. In the Guanzhong dialect, it refers to the motion of “turning back and forth.” Since every step in making Xue Mian — from kneading the dough, making the flatbread, cooking the noodles, draining them, and even adding seasonings — involves a turning motion, the dish got its name.

　　The Pronunciation of the Character “踅” The pronunciation of this character “踅” has an interesting backstory. “踅” is an uncommon character. During the Qing Dynasty, someone from Heyang compiled a book called 《Tuyin Zazi》 (Local Sounds and Miscellaneous Characters). Out of goodwill, they used the ancient pronunciation “xué” of the character “页” (page) to phonetically annotate “踅.” However, very few people knew this ancient pronunciation, and the well-intentioned act backfired. Everyone ended up pronouncing it by its modern sound “yè,” and no one said “xué.” Outsiders visiting Heyang simply read the character as written, turning “Xue Mian” into “Page Mian” — a huge misunderstanding.

　　How Xue Mian Is Made

　　Heyang Xue Mian is a noodle dish made from a mixture of 70% buckwheat flour and 30% wheat flour. Though convenient to eat, the process of making it is relatively complex and requires strict standards. Only top-grade buckwheat and wheat must be selected and ground into high-quality flour. The dough-mixing process, called “pan mian” (literally “spreading the dough”), requires stirring with a shoulder pole or wooden stick — even strong young men end up sweating from the effort. Once the dough is stiffened, water is gradually added to form a thin paste. Two flat-bottomed griddles, slightly raised in the center and sloping down toward the edges, are prepared. The batter is poured onto the griddle and quickly spread from the center outward using a scraper, then from the edges inward, forming a round pancake about the thickness of a copper coin. When the pancake begins to dry, it is quickly transferred to another griddle to be baked — it needs to be cooked through but not browned. This requires considerable experience to control the heat properly. The diameter of the pancake ranges between 1.8 and 2.1 chi (approximately 60–70 cm). Once baked, the pancakes are stacked one by one — a process called “he” (combining) — to prevent moisture loss and keep them soft. Then they are spread out individually on wooden rafters to cool. Each pancake is then folded three times and cut into noodles less than one centimeter wide, which are neatly placed in a specially made wooden box. The noodles are covered with damp and dry cloths until ready to be served. This preparation allows the Xue Mian to be preserved for ten days to half a month in winter, or two to three days in summer.

　　How to Eat Xue Mian

　　Prepared Xue Mian is similar to instant noodles. To eat, soak it in boiling water for two minutes, then remove and place in a bowl. Add a small amount of “fen yu” (fish-shaped starch jelly), and season with salt, vinegar, chopped scallions, ground Sichuan peppercorn, drizzle with chili oil and rendered lard. For the best quality, fen yu should be made from mung bean starch, though wheat or corn starch can also be used. However, sweet potato starch is most commonly used. Heyang produces high-quality sweet potatoes that are sweet and tasty, making decent fen yu as well. Locals prefer their Xue Mian with plenty of chili oil and lard — the result is soft, rich, spicy, and aromatic, extremely satisfying. It can also be paired with a bowl of fen yu soup. The combination of dry and liquid elements meets hygiene and nutritional standards. Additionally, buckwheat has the benefit of clearing heat and promoting urination. Building on the simple traditional way of eating, locals have improved the dish by slicing the large pancake into thin strips, briefly boiling them, then draining and seasoning — making it even more delicious.