Lei Family Tofu Balls

Lei Family Tofu Balls

　　Guiyang’s street food is incredibly diverse, and some longtime residents might still recall a folk rhyme about local snacks from before the liberation: “Tofu balls and blood sausage noodles, lotus leaf glutinous rice cakes and pastries; big pork buns and brushhead dumplings, mixed meat wontons with tofu surprise…” The “tofu surprise” mentioned in this rhyme refers to the Lei Family Tofu Balls, first created in 1874 by the Lei family.

　　After more than 130 years, “Lei Family Tofu Balls” shops can still be found in the streets and alleys of Guiyang. After much searching, reporters finally tracked down the current owner—the fifth-generation successor, Lei Shi—at a modest storefront in the Traffic Street Snack City, who shared with us a series of long-buried stories.

　　Emperor Tongzhi’s Death Gives Birth to Tofu Balls

　　Let’s go back to the 13th year of the reign of Emperor Tongzhi in the Qing Dynasty (1874). After the emperor passed away, the imperial court issued a nationwide “meat ban” (prohibiting the slaughtering of pigs, cattle, sheep, chickens, ducks, etc.) for three days, during which both officials and commoners were not allowed to eat meat. Guiyang, located on the southwestern frontier, was naturally no exception.

　　Once the “meat ban” was announced, business at tofu workshops boomed. At that time, Lei Duanzao, a native of Guiyang who made a living running a tofu workshop, along with his wife “Lei San Tai,” saw this as a great opportunity to expand their business. They thought, since the authorities prohibited people from eating meatballs, why not make balls out of tofu? So, they experimented by adding an appropriate amount of salt, alkaline, spices, chopped scallions, and other seasonings to the tofu, mixing everything well, shaping it into walnut-sized balls, and then frying them in cooking oil before selling them.

　　Surprisingly, these small fried tofu balls became an instant hit with the people of Guiyang. The shrewd “Lei San Tai” clearly divided production and management roles, and the business grew more and more prosperous. It was around this time that “Lei Family Tofu Balls” became a renowned snack in Guiyang.

　　Small Tofu Balls Experience Three Ups and Downs

　　From the first to the third generation, the Lei Family Tofu Balls shop was always located at San Pai Fang (now Zhonghua South Road) in Guiyang. Thanks to strict adherence to the ingredient selection principles and production techniques established by “Lei San Tai,” the business remained very successful until the early days of the liberation. In 1956, after the public-private partnership policy was implemented, due to work assignments, the third-generation successors Lei Congxing and his wife were transferred to different government units, and the family-run shop was closed.

　　In 1960, the government called for the development of Guiyang’s famous snacks and dishes. Seizing this opportunity, Lei Congxing and his wife resumed their old trade and revived the “Lei Family Tofu Balls” brand. However, due to road renovation and demolition, their original store was demolished, so the couple had to operate at No. 102, Zhonghua South Road. Although the reopening was in a narrow alley, it truly proved the old saying—“good wine needs no bush.” Business remained brisk after reopening. It’s worth mentioning that in 1960, Premier Zhou Enlai visited Guizhou and, after tasting the “Lei Family Tofu Balls,” praised them profusely.

　　In the 1980s, after the passing of the third-generation owner of the Lei family, their children did not continue the business. It wasn’t until 1991, encouraged by the government and relatives and friends, that several brothers of the Lei family—Lei Shanxiang and others—resumed operations at the original site on Zhonghua South Road.

　　In 1995, due to road renovation, the “Lei Family Tofu Balls” store once again faced demolition. Later, as they were unable to find a suitable storefront, the business remained closed for a period. In 2000, descendants of the Lei family found a roughly 20-square-meter storefront on Yangming Road and resumed business. By this time, the “Lei Family Tofu Balls” had been passed down to the fifth generation, represented by Lei Shi.

　　Fifth-Generation Successor Talks About the Future from a Small Shopfront

　　Recalling the past glories, Lei Shi, now in his thirties, still beams with pride: “Not to mention my father’s generation—even when we were operating at Yangming Road, although each tofu ball was only sold for 20 cents, we could make over 1,000 yuan in just a few hours from 3 pm to 6 or 7 pm every day…”

　　In the Traffic Street Snack City, the “Lei Family Tofu Balls” sign is not particularly eye-catching, and the shop is only a few square meters in size. Lei Shi told reporters with some regret that, due to limitations in space and location, the Lei family no longer makes its own tofu. But he is meticulous about the century-old production process, carefully preparing ingredients every day, a process that takes several hours.

　　Although business is far from what it used to be, Lei Shi is full of confidence about the future of “Lei Family Tofu Balls”: “I’m currently looking for a prime location. I hope to turn this century-old brand into a food culture group centered on tofu balls, opening branches all over Guiyang’s streets and alleys, and restoring its former glory.”