Chuan Chuan Xiang in Chongqing

Chuan Chuan Xiang in Chongqing

　　Among the many snacks in Chongqing, Chuan Chuan Xiang is probably one of the more interesting ones. It involves skewering three to five pieces of meat or a few slices of potatoes, kelp, and so on with long bamboo sticks. The sticks come in different lengths — shorter ones for meat, longer ones for vegetables — and therefore have different prices: one jiao per stick for vegetables and two jiao per stick for meat. You can choose whichever food you like, then put it in the pot to boil. Once cooked, hold the bamboo stick, dip it in the spicy sauce first, and then carefully pick off the cooked food from the stick with your teeth, chewing it slowly. The aftertaste is simply endless.

　　The broth used to cook the skewers is quite similar to that of hot pot, using very particular ingredients — from the main ones such as beef tallow, Sichuan peppercorns, chili peppers, distiller's grains, and red dates to the secondary ones like sugar, MSG, and pepper. None can be omitted, or the flavor will suffer. People in Chongqing have discerning palates; even if one seasoning is missing, they can tell the difference in quality. The dipping sauces, served in oil dishes, are also very particular, with two types: sesame oil dish and dry oil dish. The sesame oil dish is mainly made with sesame oil, which clears heat and removes dryness. The dry oil dish contains chili powder, ground peanuts, and scallions. Wrap the cooked skewers in it, and the taste is spicy and fragrant, making every pore on your body tingle — an utterly refreshing experience.

　　In fact, Chuan Chuan Xiang is just a variation of hot pot, with only the method of eating being different. Hot pot involves serving food in dishes, while Chuan Chuan Xiang involves skewering the food on bamboo sticks, thus offering a different style. In hot pot, large plates of food are thrown into the pot, and once cooked, you can scoop out a big bowlful — the joy and boldness of eating big chunks of meat and drinking large cups of alcohol are fully expressed. Chuan Chuan Xiang, on the other hand, emphasizes small portions and refinement. Bold northerners often sigh that one skewer isn’t even enough to fill a gap in their teeth. But actually, the charm of Chuan Chuan Xiang lies precisely in its small portions and what it lacks — it makes you put in a bit of effort before you can eat it, leaving a lingering aftertaste. Therefore, in Chongqing, hot pot is served in upscale settings, while Chuan Chuan Xiang is found all over in back alleys and humble streets. Three or five friends sit around the pot, cooking bundles of bamboo sticks, sipping beer, chatting about life’s old stories, and slowly waiting for the skewers to cook. After a long wait, those little pieces of food, coated in seasoning, finally enter the mouth — the taste is truly delightful. After eating and drinking, the waiter counts the sticks, counting until their fingers are sore, and the total is only twenty or thirty yuan.

　　Chuan Chuan Xiang is also called Malatang. Malatang is often used to describe the interesting, subtly satirical, and flavorful little incidents in daily life. Drawing on this metaphor, the recorded shows "Life Malatang" and "Malatang Family Feud" reflect the stories of ordinary people in Chongqing, embodying grassroots wisdom and humor. Not only do locals love watching them, but outsiders also find them highly entertaining.