Taian Fish

Taian Fish

　　When it comes to fish from Taian Town in Tongnan County, Chongqing — a place with quite some renown in Bashu culinary culture — historical records speak volumes. According to the Chronicles of Tongnan County · Chapter on Produce: “The bream, also known as the ‘short-necked’ bream mentioned in Tang poetry, is found in Washuan Tuo, Taian Town. Its belly resembles a Yue battle-axe, its color dark bluish-black, and its taste delicious — truly a rarity elsewhere.” The Yu Di Ji Sheng states: “'During the Later Shu period, fish were often caught from the Forbidden Stream.' Legend has it that those caught were none other than these.” As a result, the locals also refer to the Taian bream as “tribute fish,” and to Washuan Tuo as the “Forbidden Stream.” Ingenious Taian residents leveraged this bream to develop a unique cooking technique, eventually creating the now-famous “Taian Bream” — the precursor to today’s “Taian Fish.”

　　 　　As the reputation of “Taian Bream” grew, so did its demand. But the limited supply from the mere hundred-meter waters of Washuan Tuo could hardly meet market needs. So the resourceful people of Taian explored new options, using more abundant fish such as flower carp, silver carp, and grass carp as the main ingredients. They added dried chili peppers, broad bean paste, ginger, scallions, garlic, and a blend of pork, beef, and vegetable oils. They revolutionized the traditional cooking method of “high heat for tofu, low heat for fish” by adopting a “high heat for boiling, low heat for simmering” approach, placing great emphasis on precise timing. This innovation gave birth to what we now know as “Taian Fish.”

　　 　　 “Taian Fish” not only retains the flavor and characteristics of the original “Taian Bream,” but also emphasizes strong taste with delicate texture — a hallmark of Sichuan cuisine. It is often summarized in six words: “numbing, spicy, hot; tender, delicate, fresh.” The first three describe its flavor, the latter three its texture — that’s one of its key traits. Secondly, “Taian Fish” also follows a unique dining custom. First, diners choose their own live fish. Every “Taian Fish” restaurant has its own fish pond, where customers pick the fish they want, selecting size and weight as they please. Next, the price is based on the actual weight shown on the scale — around 10 yuan per jin, fair trade for all ages. Then, the fish head is cut off to make soup, while the fillet is used for cooking the dish, offering both soup and main course, meat and vegetables. Finally, the leftover fish broth and seasonings can be reused to prepare additional dishes like “fish with tofu” or “fish with konjac,” creating yet another delicious meal. This economical and popular approach has won over many diners. Whether for hosting family gatherings, receiving guests, or conducting business meetings, a meal here leaves everyone full and satisfied at just around 20 yuan per person.

　　 　　The people of Taian, Tongnan, have built the reputation of “Taian Fish,” and in return, “Taian Fish” has brought prosperity to them. In this small town alone, there are over 20 specialized “Taian Fish” restaurants and fish farms. Every day, at least 500 kilograms of fresh fish are sold. This high demand has spurred another remarkable development in Taian — a booming and rapidly advancing fish farming industry. “Taian Fish” has not only invigorated commerce, enriched farmers, and boosted local tax revenues, but also painted a vibrant picture of Taian moving toward prosperity through the balanced growth of agriculture, forestry, animal husbandry, sideline production, and fisheries.

　　 　　Today, “Taian Fish” is not only widespread across Sichuan, but has also stepped beyond the Kuimen Pass to reach major cities such as Beijing, Shanghai, Guangzhou, Shenzhen, Haikou, and Lhasa.