Mangrove Coconut Rice

Mangrove Coconut Rice

　　The mangroves are only about a forty-minute drive from Haikou. They grow on tidal flats and are said to be the largest mangrove forest in the world. The leaves of the mangrove trees turn red for a brief period, but after living in Hainan for many years and visiting numerous times, I’ve only ever seen them green.

　　In the early days, not many people went there, but later, as it became known as the world’s largest mangrove forest, visitor numbers gradually increased. In recent years, the local government has built roads and hotels along the forested coastline, and now you have to buy a ticket to enter the mangroves.

　　A long wooden boardwalk leads to a boat ride on a meandering river through the low-lying forest. At low tide, tree roots and tidal flats are exposed, while at high tide, only treetops and branches sway in the waves. The boat captain, who also acts as a guide, will tell you how villagers used to hide here when the Japanese came—they couldn’t find them. Just a few years ago, you could crouch down in the mangroves and gather half a basket of crabs. His stories make your mouth water and tempt you to jump ashore.

　　The boat slowly approaches a small island called "Wild Pineapple Island," covered with wild pineapple trees. The wild pineapples aren’t edible, but the umbrella-like canopies and twisted branches might remind you of the dream "camping tents" you imagined playing war games as a child. Restaurants are usually located near the ticket checkpoint, serving mostly seafood, but what left the deepest impression was the coconut rice.

　　The method of preparation involves slicing off the green husk of a fresh coconut, leaving the hard shell, then making a small opening in the shell. Glutinous rice is washed and poured inside, the opening is sealed, and the coconut is steamed. The rice, cooked in coconut juice, is cut into four slices. It’s sweet and fragrant, and you eat right down to the white coconut flesh, crunching it up until it’s all gone. I remember two women from inland who, after finishing their portions, asked for two more, saying they wanted to take them on the plane back home the next day.

　　Want to give it a try? Then head to Hainan and get someone to take you to the mangroves.