Huizhou Stir-Fried Snails

Huizhou Stir-Fried Snails

　　　    Huizhou people love eating stir-fried snails, a tradition said to be linked to a story involving the great Song Dynasty literary figure Su Dongpo. One day, Su’s friend, the monk Foyin, came across several pounds of freshwater snails and, feeling inspired, wanted to share them with Su. Unfortunately, Su was not at home. When the maid asked what Foyin wanted, the monk playfully patted her on the buttocks, kissed her on the lips, and then left laughing. When Su returned and heard the maid’s account, he burst into laughter and said, “Great, great, we’ll have snails tonight.” This anecdote vividly illustrates how snails are eaten: first, the tail end of the shell is knocked off, then the snails are stir-fried with seasonings. To eat them, you suck at the tail and mouth of the snail to draw out the meat. Su Dongpo’s snail-eating tale has had a lasting influence on Huizhou residents. Today, eating snails is not just about enjoying a delicacy—it has evolved into a distinct culinary culture.

　　    As night falls, snail stalls pop up all over the streets and alleys—some set up every hundred steps or so with bright red stoves, each running their own business; others cluster in groups of three or five, their lights shining brilliantly as they compete for customers. Under the lights, on small tables, lie plump field snails and shiny stone snails. The vendors rinse the snails, clip off the tail ends of the shells, season them with chili, garlic, and fermented black beans, then stir-fry them in sizzling oil with a bit of water. In no time, the aroma wafts through the air. From dozens of meters away, it teases passersby into salivating and craving a taste.

　　    When food-loving visitors arrive, they see the plates as treasure bowls. They don’t hesitate or nitpick but quickly pick up the snails—two fingers to hold, three to pinch—and place them securely in hand. Sucking the tail and mouth, they enjoy the delicious juices first; then, chewing the meat, they savor the lingering flavor and absorb the nutrients within.