Hakka Roast Goose

Hakka Roast Goose

　　According to Hakka tradition, several months before the Lunar New Year, every Hakka family raises more than ten geese. As the New Year approaches, each goose grows to weigh over ten pounds. On the 28th day of the 12th lunar month, after slaughtering and plucking, the geese are boiled in a large pot until just cooked, then slightly drained. Next, the light soy sauce is brought to a boil and then cooled, with an appropriate amount of brown sugar and white liquor added. Then, each goose is cut into 4 large pieces, all placed in an earthen jar filled with soy sauce to marinate. During the New Year, the goose meat is taken out, cut into small pieces, first sautéed with fermented black beans, onions, and ginger slices, then stir-fried with celery and garlic sprouts.

　　Wuguishan is a settlement area for Hakka people in Zhongshan, and salted chicken is a traditional Hakka dish. As early as 2001, A'gu launched Zhongshan’s first-ever Hakka-style salted goose. “The traditional Hakka salted chicken is made by boiling a whole chicken in ice-cold water with a flat bowl of salt, taking it out after cooking, rubbing it all over with cooking oil, then chopping and plating. The method for making salted goose is more complex—the only suitable ingredient is Shatian goose, each weighing between 2.5 to 3 kilograms; too heavy and the meat is coarse, too light and it lacks ‘chew.’ The brine includes secret medicinal herbs, and the heat must be carefully controlled to create a Hakka salted goose that is sweet and tender with a lingering aftertaste.”

　　In my memory, roast goose is a Cantonese specialty. But it’s the Hakka people from Huizhou who really excel at selling it.

　　Huizhou in Guangdong, historically also known as Goose City, may owe its name to this very reason—there are especially many people in the city who make a living selling roast goose. In 1989, “Roast Goose Kid” opened its first restaurant in Huizhou, and within a few years, it expanded to nearly 20 major cities across the country. These restaurants had one big characteristic—they had no menus. Several hundred types of Cantonese, Teochew, and Hakka dishes were all prepared in advance as semi-finished products and displayed in large refrigerated showcases. All dishes were clearly priced, allowing customers to choose and combine based on their own tastes. The kitchens were transparent, where customers could watch the slaughtering of snakes, crabs, fish, and shrimp, as well as the cooking of their selected dishes. This self-service dining style was quickly embraced by food lovers and had a profound impact on the domestic catering industry. It was briefly referred to as the “Roast Goose Kid phenomenon” in China’s food service sector. Over the years, the company’s assets accumulated to nearly 400 million yuan. Subsequently, the restaurants continued to expand, gaining fame in Shanghai and Hangzhou and becoming hugely popular in Beijing.