Pot Dish
The history of the origin of Changde’s pot dish is still unclear to this day, but as a distinct culinary culture with unique flavors, it is the product of specific geographical, climatic conditions, local specialties, and cultural heritage.
Changde has four distinct seasons, abundant rainfall, a warm and humid climate, and rich natural resources, earning it the reputation as a “land of fish and rice.” But in ancient times, this area was considered a remote and wild land. According to historical records and archaeological findings, as early as 8,000 years ago, primitive tribes lived and thrived among the mountains and rivers of Changde. These primitive groups belonged to the Sanmiao tribes, and from the Xia, Shang, and Western Zhou dynasties, the area was inhabited by the Pu people.
The development of the Changde region went through three major waves of migration from the Central Plains. The first was during the Spring and Autumn Period, around the 37th year of King Wu of Chu (704 BC), when the power of the Chu state first crossed the Yangtze River from Zhijiang and Jiangling, passing through Songzi and Gong’an to enter the middle and lower reaches of the Lishui and Yuanjiang rivers in the western part of Dongting Lake. Especially in the late Spring and Autumn Period (447 BC), after Chu destroyed Cai, a large number of immigrants from the State of Cai (now Shangcai in Henan) were relocated to Gaocai (now Wuling District). The second wave occurred after the Yongjia Rebellion during the Eastern Jin Dynasty, when people from the Central Plains migrated southward again, with a large number of people from Yiyang Commandery in Henan (now Xinyang region) moving to present-day Anxiang and Lixian counties, where the Nan Yiyang Commandery was established. The third wave was during the Southern Song Dynasty when the political center moved southward, leading to a massive migration of Central Plains residents. These migrants brought advanced production techniques that accelerated local development, along with the culinary culture of the Central Plains.
Due to the relatively isolated nature of the ancient Changde region, as well as factors such as the local climate and people’s needs, some plants and cooking methods believed to have disappeared by renowned scholars have survived here. For example, the “kui vegetable” (also known as winter amaranth), once regarded as the “king of vegetables” in ancient times, is still grown in Changde. Additionally, the ancient and once widely popular cooking method called “zha,” which had vanished in the Central Plains, is still used in Changde. This helps explain why Changde’s pot dish, an enduring remnant of ancient ding (tripod cauldron) cuisine culture, integrated with indigenous traditions, has been able to survive and thrive over the long term.
A Changde folk rhyme goes: “I’d rather not be an imperial son-in-law in the court than not have a bubbling pot dish on the stove.” Why are Changde people so obsessed with pot dishes? In addition to the reasons mentioned above, there are other factors. First, Changde is located in northern Hunan, north of which lies the vast Jianghan Plain—offering no barrier against the cold fronts sweeping down from the north, which can penetrate all the way through, making winters and springs cold and damp, with temperatures dropping below freezing. Moreover, situated in the Dongting Lake area, the land is low-lying, resulting in hot and humid summers and autumns, with temperatures soaring above 38 degrees Celsius. Pot dishes are perfect for driving away the cold and dampness while also stimulating the appetite. Second, this ancient style of cooking produces a broth-heavy dish where the main ingredients are tender and succulent, preserving the color, aroma, and flavor of the food, with rich sauce and delicious taste. Furthermore, Changde locals have always preferred hot food, with a saying that “one boiling is worth three fresh.” Considering that the optimal taste temperature is around 70 degrees Celsius, pot dishes meet people’s flavor expectations. Third, the ingredients used are sourced locally—from freshwater seafood, poultry, and seasonal vegetables—all of which are widely available and easy to obtain.
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