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Volcanic Millet

Published: 2026-11-10 👁 100 views
Last updated 2026-11-10 — In over a dozen villages such as Haojiagou, Jijiazhuangzi, Sunjiagou, Duanjiagou, Xiangshui, Heishanzi, and Nanyin, surrounding the ancient volcano group in Qiaoguan Town, Changle County, a traditional type of millet called "donkey rein millet" has long been cultivated on the thin mountain soils. The millet milled from this grain is known as donkey rein millet. Because this grain grows in volcanic ash...

Volcanic Millet

Volcanic millet is a geographical indication certification trademark.

  In over a dozen villages such as Haojiagou, Jijiazhuangzi, Sunjiagou, Duanjiagou, Xiangshui, Heishanzi, and Nanyin, surrounding the ancient volcano group in Qiaoguan Town, Changle County, a traditional type of millet called "donkey rein millet" has long been cultivated on the thin mountain soils. The millet milled from this grain is known as donkey rein millet. Because this grain grows in volcanic ash, it is also called volcanic millet. This type of millet also has a historical backstory.

  Legend has it that the Eight Immortals from mythology—Iron-Crutch Li, Han Zhongli, Lü Dongbin, Zhang Guolao, Cao Guojiu, Han Xiangzi, Lan Caihe, and He Xiangu—traveled east together. One autumn, when they arrived at Haojiagou within Qiaoguan territory, they found the area surrounded by towering mountains, lush ancient trees, cascading mountain springs and waterfalls, and filled with birdsong and floral fragrance. Zhang Guolao suggested they stay and enjoy the scenery for a few days, and everyone agreed. They set up camp on Xiezishan (Scorpion Mountain) west of Haojiagou Village. Zhang Guolao tied his mount—a donkey—to a peach tree on the mountain. A few days later, the donkey, perhaps wanting to explore the mountain views, broke free from its rein and ran into a nearby millet field. Seeing this, Zhang Guolao hurried after it. The more he chased, the more the donkey ran, dragging the rein behind it. It circled the entire mountain before Zhang finally caught it. Then something miraculous happened: the millet fields the donkey had run through sprouted ears of grain, their shapes resembling donkey reins. Since it was the immortal donkey of Zhang Guolao that had run through dragging the rein, the locals began calling this type of grain "donkey rein millet."

  According to elders in Haojiagou Village, in the second year of the Taiyan era during the Northern Wei Dynasty (436 AD), a general named Xu Liang in the Northern Wei court lost an arm in battle while leading troops to conquer the Northern Liang. Unable to continue fighting, he recovered from his injury and asked to retire from the court, wishing to return to his hometown in Hebei to live out his days in peace. When he, along with his family of over 40, reached the area north of Jijiazhuangzi Village in Changle territory, they were captivated by the dense forests, green mountains, clear waters, and pleasant natural environment. He petitioned the court to settle there, and the request was quickly approved, granting him a fief. According to the inscription on the Xu family tombstone unearthed from the Xu burial grounds, the fief’s boundaries were: east to Qiaoshan, west to Yaoshan, north to Taohuashan, and south to Dagushan. After settling down, Xu Liang used the funds allocated by the court to build the Xu family estate, purchased a large number of oxen, donkeys, and horses, and hired over 60 servants and laborers. Aside from renting most of the land granted by the court to local villagers for farming, the Xu family steward, Xu Wangcai, led the workers and servants to cultivate the lands in over ten villages—including Jijiazhuangzi, Heishanzi, and Xiangshui—with donkey rein millet. After harvest, aside from keeping some seeds, the rest was all handed over to the Northern Wei court. Historical records state that congee made from donkey rein millet produces thick, fragrant, and nutritious porridge, making it especially suitable for pregnant women, new mothers, and the sick or frail. As a result, most of the millet offered as tribute by the Xu family was consumed by the imperial consorts and concubines in the palace.

  Later, in the third year of the JianDe era during the reign of Emperor Wu of Zhou (574 AD), the Xu family was eradicated by the new dynasty. However, the cultivation of donkey rein millet continued, though it was no longer used as tributary rice.

  It wasn’t until the Qing Dynasty that Yu Yunzhong, a successful candidate in the highest imperial examinations (Jinshi) from Beilijiahe, reintroduced this variety of donkey rein millet to other provinces. According to the *Changle County Continued Annals – Biographies of Meritorious Deeds*: “Yu Yunzhong, styled Chuanyi, also known as Qiaodong, was brilliant and precocious in his youth, able to memorize what he read at a glance. After studying at the local school, he pursued further learning at Chengfu Mountain. Every literary piece he composed was widely circulated. Eminent scholars all praised and admired his work. In the year of Dingmao, he passed the provincial examination; in the year of Xinwei, he became a Jinshi and was appointed as an official in the Ministry of Revenue, later selected as the magistrate of Shenze County in Zhili. The land there was barren and the people poor...” Upon arriving in Shenze County, Yu Yunzhong sought to develop local agriculture. He introduced the sorghum and millet varieties from his hometown around Haojiagou to the mountainous regions of Shenze County, achieving bountiful harvests year after year. The millet he brought was none other than donkey rein millet.

  Today, not only do the over ten villages near the ancient volcano group continue to cultivate donkey rein millet—also known as volcanic millet—but the grain is also grown in the thick volcanic ash produced by volcanic eruptions. With abundant sunlight, ample rainfall, suitable mountain winds, and unpolluted soil, high-quality volcanic millet is produced. The grains are uniformly sized, golden and shiny in color. When cooked into congee, it becomes sweet, aromatic, fine, smooth, sticky, and belongs to the high-fat premium variety. It also contains a variety of vitamins, amino acids, and mineral elements, making it an essential nutritious food for pregnant women, new mothers, and those who are ill or frail. It is also an excellent food to promote healthy growth in adolescents.

  Xiezishan Agricultural Cooperative

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