Banquet Ball (Yanqiu)

Banquet Ball (Yanqiu)

　　Qiantang River fish balls are prized for their soft and smooth texture, with clear coloration, tender smoothness, and delicious taste. Their texture is somewhat like tofu, and the flavor bursts with the sweet freshness of freshwater fish — truly top-tier among fish balls. Folklore tells that Emperor Qianlong, traveling incognito, once enjoyed a bowl of Qiantang River fish balls in Yanguan. These fish balls were rich yet not greasy, with tender and fresh fish meat, making them exceptional. Emperor Qianlong ate them all in one go. Later, the chef who made them was invited to the imperial kitchen in Beijing.

　　One of the main ingredients of Yanqiu is fish — specifically three types: white carp, grass carp, and silver carp. The best choice is white carp weighing over 1.5 kilograms, as its flesh is delicate and lively. Among white carp, those from the current year and the previous year are differentiated, with the latter being preferred. There's also a distinction between pond-raised fish and cultured fish, with pond-raised being superior because they primarily eat grass. Cultured white carp often feed on oil cakes and have an earthy taste, lacking freshness — especially those from the current year. Another key ingredient is meat, which must be fatty, with many considerations for selection. Haining’s “Chang’an Yanqiu” is a delicious dish. When locals in Chang’an talk about “Chang’an Yanqiu,” they often proudly and at length describe it as a famous local dish, even one recorded in the *Chang’an Town Annals*.

　　Legend has it that when Emperor Qianlong traveled south to inspect the seawall, he journeyed by boat along the Grand Canal. Along the way, enchanted by the scenery of the Jiangnan region — just as Bai Juyi wrote, “Jiangnan is good, its scenery I long remember; the sunrise over flowers by the river outshines fire, in spring the river water is greener than blue — how could I not miss Jiangnan?” — he was filled with joy and longing. When his boat reached Chang’an, the Emperor’s desire for an incognito adventure arose again, so he landed ashore with a few trusted attendants. He explored streetside taverns, misty bridges, and willows by the canal to his heart’s content. Unknowingly, he arrived outside Xinghua Village, where he saw fields in rows, rivers and lakes crisscrossing, simple houses, and the chirping of parrots and magpies — so captivating that he lost all thought of returning. Approaching noon, the group grew hungry and caught the scent of home cooking from a household ahead, its chimney emitting wisps of smoke. Emperor Qianlong and his attendants went in hoping to find something to eat. The household was a farming couple who lived a simple but happy life of farming and weaving. Though not wealthy, they were peaceful. Busy preparing lunch, they warmly invited the strangers to sit down when they arrived. The attendants explained that they were simply hungry and hoped for something fresh and clean to fill their stomachs. The host, eager to help, hurried to the kitchen. But with no special dishes prepared, what could he offer? Suddenly, he remembered there was still a silver carp in the vat — why not make fish balls? He quickly asked his wife to debone the carp, mash the flesh into paste, mix it with scallions, ginger, and other seasonings, shape it into balls, and steam them. But the fish balls looked a bit small, so he chopped up some pre-soaked pork skin and attached it to the balls. Instantly, the small spheres became larger and more appealing. Once steamed and served, the guests were invited to try them. By then, Emperor Qianlong was ravenous. Seeing these fuzzy-looking, steaming balls with an inviting aroma, and not knowing what they were, he picked one up with his chopsticks and took a bite. It was crispy on the outside, tender inside, fragrant, and delicious. He asked the host what the dish was called. The host replied that it was something they had whipped up on the spot — fish balls coated with pork skin — and that it had no name yet. Pleased with the taste, Emperor Qianlong, in high spirits, asked for writing materials. His attendants promptly brought brush, ink, paper, and inkstone, laying out rice paper and grinding the ink. With a flourish, Emperor Qianlong wrote a poetic couplet: “Xinghua Village wine intoxicates two banquets, Han fish and full pork enchant one ball.” He then excitedly told the host, “Today, I name this dish ‘Yanqiu’ (Banquet Ball). It symbolizes peace in your household every day and the honor of being served in noble feasts.” Only then did the host realize that the dignified man before him was none other than the Emperor himself. He quickly kowtowed and thanked him, shouting “Long live the Emperor!” in reverence. From then on, Chang’an Yanqiu gained great fame.