Linhai Sesame Cake

Linhai Sesame Cake

　　Legend has it that during the Ming Dynasty, the national hero Qi Jiguang was fighting against Japanese pirates on Shangfeng Ridge in Baishuipu. The battles were intense, so he asked local residents to prepare some dry rations—ideally something that could be strung together and worn on their bodies so they could eat while fighting. Later, as the troops passed through Hutou and Changtan, local residents thought of the pastry shops on Zhangjiadu Street, so they sent people there to place orders. Upon learning of the situation, the pastry shops in Zhangjiadu modified the originally flat, round sesame cakes into ones with corners and a small hole in the center, so that they could be strung on ropes and roasted without breaking. By the Qing Dynasty, with the development of the local economy, the shape of the Zhangjiadu sesame cakes also changed—they became round outside and square inside, resembling ancient copper coins. Locals called them “coin cakes,” symbolizing the idea of being upright and proper within, and flexible and adaptable in business dealings with the outside world. Some referred to these cakes as “navel cakes.” At the same time, Zhangjiadu also produced baked sesame cakes. There were two types of baked cakes: one savory, filled with minced fatty pork and green onions, both salted and diced; the other sweet, filled with red bean paste and white sugar. Both types were baked in a sesame cake oven using white charcoal fire. As for whether they ended up crispy, the key lay in the amount of “crumbly dough”—the more crumbly dough used, the tastier the cake. This “crumbly dough” was made by mixing lard and wheat flour and then kneading them together.

　　Before liberation, there were four or five sesame cake stalls on Zhangjiadu Street, and some even set up baked cake stalls at Shanghai’s City God Temple. Because these cakes were fragrant, crispy, and delicious, they were highly praised by customers in Shanghai. (Linhai)