White Water and Autumn Wind

White Water and Autumn Wind

Wannian Temple was known as Puxian Temple during the Jin Dynasty, renamed Baishui Temple in the Tang Dynasty, Baishui Puxian Temple in the Song Dynasty, and finally Shengshou Wannian Temple during the Wanli era of the Ming Dynasty. “Baishui” became an alias for Wannian Temple. “The secluded temple is called Baishui, its golden splendor radiant against the sky. The pond faces three or four directions, while peaks stand in countless numbers.” (Fang Xiaoru, *Baishui Temple*) Within the temple lies a pond known as the Baishui Pond, which legend says is where Li Bai of the Tang Dynasty listened to the monk Jun play the zither. In his poem *Listening to Monk Jun Play the Zither*, Li Bai wrote: “A monk from Shu brought his green silk lute, descending from the peaks of Emei. With one sweep of his hand, he played notes that sounded like pine winds through valleys. My traveler’s heart was cleansed by the flowing water, the lingering echoes merging with the frosty bells. Unaware that the green mountains had darkened, layers of autumn clouds grew thick.” The frogs in the pond croak melodiously, reminiscent of zither strings—folklore says they learned their art from the masterful playing of Monk Jun. The mountain scenery around Wannian Temple is pleasant year-round, but especially enchanting in autumn. When golden autumn arrives, while summer heat still lingers at the foot of Mount Emei and the snowy peaks of the Golden Summit begin to glisten, this ancient temple nestled in the mid-mountain region is in the prime of its yearly beauty.

Gazing around the Baishui Pond on a clear autumn day, the sky is an unusually vivid blue, vast and boundless. Wisps of white cloud curl around the steep Guanxin Slope behind the temple, where leaves in green, yellow, and red intermingle against the azure backdrop. The autumn wind rustles through the peaks and shakes the forests, sending out whistles, while flakes of orange-red maple leaves dance freely in the air. Echoing the wind, the stream that cuts through the ancient temple murmurs softly. The flow of water, the whisper of the wind, and the rustling of trees create a symphony of layered tones—both high and low—like a deep, resonant, and fluid forest concerto, dancing along with the fluttering red leaves. Liu Ru of the Qing Dynasty could not help but praise the autumn scenery in his poem *Mount Da’e*: “The world knows Mount Emei’s beauty; riding the clouds, we embark on a splendid journey. Dragons’ roars bring rain to a thousand valleys, trees dot the peaks in autumn hues.”

The poems, couplets, and inscriptions preserved in the ancient temple hold a special affection for the autumn colors of Wannian Temple. Ming Dynasty’s Fang Xiaoru wrote: “Moonlight spills from the forest onto the pond; wind blows clouds through the temple door.” An anonymous author composed the couplet: “Famous mountains stretch for miles, echoing Buddhist chants; autumn hues of Wannian inspire poetic lines.” Contemporary Master Bianneng penned: “White Water and Autumn Wind are both profound truths; jade palaces and crystal towers cannot rival such chill,” regarding the autumn scenery of Wannian Temple as a realm of sublime mystery. Gazing down into the clear waters of the Baishui Pond, one sees reflections of white clouds and green mountains. When the water is still and the wind calm, mountains dwell within the pond, clouds within the mountains, and water within the clouds—it’s impossible to tell where one ends and the other begins. But when the autumn wind rises, it ripples the clear pool and stirs the drifting clouds. At such moments, the spirit wanders with the scenery, the heart transforming along with the view. The Qing poet Dou? sighed in his poem *Wannian Temple*: “Mist wreathes the temple halfway up the mountain; one window frames the valley clouds. On a moonlit night, seek the silver glow—yet who can truly judge such serene beauty?” Ancient verse reads: “In the third autumn, waters run clear, white clouds drift lightly; autumn wind howls through woods, yellow leaves fall onto water.” This is much like the scenic verse that embodies “White Water and Autumn Wind.”