Clear Clouds over Luofeng

Clear Clouds over Luofeng

Luofeng is located to the right of Fuhu Temple, about 0.5 kilometers away, and is a small hill at the foot of Fuhu Mountain. It boasts lush grass, elegant bamboo, winding streams, ancient nanmu trees standing tall and verdant, and secluded winding paths. The hill is home to hundreds of ancient pine trees with uniquely shaped branches, standing robust and upright—making it a rare gathering place for pine trees on Mount Emei. When the mountain breeze blows, rustling waves of pine sound echo through the valleys, exuding a majestic “power of the pines.” On summer days after the rain clears, wisps of mist rise gently from the valleys or drift slowly across the blue sky. Viewed through the dense clusters of pine trees, the ever-changing scenes are breathtaking: sometimes fluffy white clouds drift down from Fuhu Ridge, float over to the top of Luofeng, and even drift around visitors, weaving among the pine trees—sometimes dancing lightly, sometimes drifting toward the Emei Plain below, showcasing the ever-shifting beauty of Emei’s clouds. Clouds rise from the rocks, and springs flow down from the stones. Countless travelers climb the mountain, leaning on mountain pavilions and letting out long exclamations. Morning bells ring as clouds emerge; evening bells chime as clouds return. Travelers may not be used to such sights, suddenly surprised to find clouds brushing against their clothes. The scene described in the Ming Dynasty literary figure Yang Shen’s poem “Returning Clouds Pavilion,” depicting “clouds emerging and returning,” closely resembles the view of Clear Clouds over Luofeng. The Returning Clouds Pavilion is actually Huayan Temple, which no longer exists. Its ruins are located 1.25 kilometers uphill from Luofeng.

Clear Clouds over Luofeng are beautiful, and so are the bright moonlit nights over Luofeng. When the bright moon rises overhead, set against the deep blue sky, it’s hard to tell whether the moon is embedded in the sky or painted upon it. Moonlight bathes the pine forest, accompanied by the sound of rustling pines, giving people a sense of purity and cool refreshment.

Luofeng is also the best spot to overlook the Emei Plain. From the summit, the vibrant life of the Emei Plain stretches out as far as the eye can see. When light clouds drift over from Fuhu Ridge, pass Luofeng, and descend onto the Emei Plain, visitors feel as if they are in the clouds, experiencing a surreal sense of being between heaven and earth. The scenery of Luofeng has long been admired and cherished by ancient poets. During the Qing Dynasty, in the Kangxi era, the imperial historian Jiang Chao, captivated by Mount Emei and enchanted by Luofeng’s misty clouds, sunset, and moonrise, took up residence in Luofeng An (Luofeng Nunnery) at the foot of Luofeng. Despite his frail health, he worked day and night to hastily compile a relatively complete version of the “Mount Emei Annals,” leaving behind a precious legacy for future generations. Jiang Chao also spent his final years on Mount Emei. Luofeng An, also known as Luofeng Chan Monastery, is an elegant small temple that was rebuilt in June 1987. It is shaded by emerald bamboo and tall nanmu trees, offering a serene and otherworldly atmosphere. A couplet on its gate reads: “Untainted by a speck of dust in the three thousand realms; all dharmas are empty in the twelve causal links.” Behind the nunnery lies a newly built stupa complex for monks, with rows of tomb stupas standing solemnly and majestically. Many eminent monks and masters of Mount Emei regarded Luofeng as a sacred resting place after their passing. Tan Zhongyue’s poem “Clear Clouds over Luofeng” captures both historical reflection and scenic description, expressing a deep attachment to the drifting clouds: “Arriving at this peak monastery, remnants of immortality linger; The imperial historian and tiger-like minister once built a hut here. Traces of those who rode cranes or flew like ducks have faded; A single sheet of clear clouds rolls and unfurls again.”