Huqiu Hong'enyan Scenic Area

Huqiu Hong'enyan Scenic Area

Huqiu Hong'enyan Scenic Area is a national AAA-level tourist attraction.

As the saying goes, each place has its own unique environment that shapes its people. Recently, I had the pleasure of accompanying several journalist friends to the newly renowned Anxi Huqiu Hong'enyan Scenic Area to experience the distinctive landscape shaped by its local character. The scenic area is about 80 kilometers from Xiamen, Zhangzhou, and Quanzhou, with Provincial Highway 207 running through the town and just over 20 kilometers from downtown Anxi. Our car set off from the entrance of the Anxi County Government compound, speeding cheerfully along the straight and wide Datong Road, passing through Guanqiao and heading straight into the heart of Huqiu. After enjoying tea and fragrant aromas at the town government office, we were all in high spirits and first headed to Qihu Yan—one of the “Two Rocks of Huqiu.” We went full of enthusiasm and returned satisfied. After lunch, as the sun grew fiercer and the heat more intense, everyone was eager to retreat to the final destination of our trip—Hong'en Sacred Land—to enjoy the cool mountain and water charm on the mountain.

A Buddha’s Light Appears Over Guifeng Peak

When entering a new place, one typically enjoys the mountains, waters, and cultural heritage. The mountains of Hong'en Sacred Land leave a rather unique first impression. This feeling begins to spread in the gradually softening air as you enter the valley of the scenic area.

The road follows the riverbank, rising proudly as the mountain terrain gets higher. Our car parked on a small open area, and the majestic mountain gate came into view. The group filed in one after another. With feet stepping on the winding stone-paved mountain path and heads looking up, we saw the surrounding peaks encircling quietly, supporting the central main peak. According to the introduction, this peak resembles a jade tablet (gui), hence the name Guifeng Mountain. In the distance, Guifeng stands tall, and the main structure of the ancient temple sacred land Hong'enyan seems like a red fruit pinned to the waist of the peak, tempting us to wipe off our sweat and climb the steps upwards.

Crossing a winding and clear mountain spring, climbing past the Chaosheng Pavilion and Fenglong Pavilion by the roadside, and turning onto a sloping path, a stream of Dragon Spring gushes out from the roadside. Bending down, cupping your hands, you can scoop up a handful of the cool mountain spring. Wiping your face with your hands, you instantly feel refreshed, the heat dissipating by half, your steps becoming lighter—you take two steps at a time, leap up, and suddenly find yourself immersed in the Buddhist realm—Hong'enyan Temple.

Inside the treasure hall, the couplets on the high pillars and the inscriptions on the walls complement each other. In front of the offering table, various Buddhas surround and sit alongside the Manifest Response Patriarch. The Manifest Response Patriarch sits upright with a ruddy complexion, full of vitality. According to records, Hong'enyan was first built during the Southern Song Dynasty to worship the Manifest Response Patriarch. The Patriarch, whose secular surname was Huang and given name Hui Sheng, was from Taoyuan, Yongchun. In life, he devoted himself wholeheartedly to Buddhism, practiced kindness and charity, and in 1134 AD, he passed away at Taishanyan on Cuiping Mountain in Hutou Town, Anxi. His spiritual legacy was divided and passed on to Hong'enyan. Although Hong'enyan is a branch temple, its incense has remained strong for hundreds of years, with over ten branch temples extending even to Taiwan...

Stepping out of the lofty and imposing temple gate, we once again looked up at the solitary and outstanding Guifeng Mountain. A lone peak, shaped like a giant bamboo shoot, stands firmly alone, piercing straight into the blue sky, truly giving the feeling of "a nine-thousand-foot rise emerging from flat land," making one feel daunted by its presence. Legend has it that at dawn, when the rising sun climbs over the back of the peak and reaches the summit, beams of Buddha’s light shine across the entire scenic area, like a dazzling pearl disc.

“If you have the chance to climb to the summit, you can see ‘Fierce Tiger Lurking in the River,’ ‘Lute Lying and Playing,’ ‘Crooked Foot Hanging Reed,’ look left to see the Heavenly Horse unfurling its banner to attend a meeting, and look right to see the Maitreya smiling at the temple...”

Listening to our temporary guide Old Huang ramble on about the beautiful scenery and legends of Tiger Mountain, Lute Mountain, Crooked Foot Mountain, Heavenly Horse Mountain, and Maitreya Mountain, we could only sigh in admiration at the “peaks,” as the paths were long and time was limited.

By noon, under the blazing sun that made it hard to open our eyes, we could only look down from the railing. There, we saw several massive rocks forming a lotus-shaped stone pedestal that firmly supported the rock temple. Below, the Hundred-Zhang Rock Stream was scattered with rocks of various sizes, lying chaotically in the stream. The stream water flowed around the rocks, occasionally splashing like pearls and jade. Looking further ahead, scenes like the Elephant Mountain drawing water and the Lion Mountain playing with a pearl seemed to faintly appear, as Old Huang had described.

Leaning on the railing and gazing into the distance, a gentle mountain breeze, faint yet perceptible, brushed against our faces and moistened our hearts. For a moment, feeling carefree and joyful, we turned into the back mountain, descended the stone steps, and took a small path, setting off with great ambition to follow in the footsteps of scholars.

Scholars’ Cave: Ascending to Official Rank

Stepping out from the side door of the mountain temple and ascending the mountain path for just over a hundred meters, we suddenly found ourselves in an open space where a natural cave appeared before us. The cave entrance was spacious, reminiscent of the mouth of an open whale; the interior was as large as a hall, able to accommodate five tables arranged in rows; the cave ceiling was over three meters high, with jagged and uneven rocks above, exuding a majestic aura. In the past, Li Yuming, a relative of the Qing Dynasty Prime Minister Li Guangdi, taught here with remarkable success. Batch after batch of outstanding students—Lin Hongxing, Lin Denghe, Lin Keyu, Lin Damao, Lin Qingyuan, Lin Jieyun—well-read and scholarly, walked out of the stone cave, descended the steps of the rock temple, and headed to the examination halls. They succeeded in the imperial examinations, assumed official positions such as Court Councilor, Governor, and County Magistrate, and brought benefits to the local people. No wonder Mr. Leng Shan, a well-known figure in the national cultural circle, visited here and joyfully wrote in bold strokes on the cave wall: “A Scholar’s Thousand-Foot Cave, Ten Thousand Years of Merit from Buddhist Scriptures.”

Nowadays, a set of exquisite stone stools and tables has been placed on the flat ground inside the cave. We sat one by one, chatting freely about the past and present, thoroughly enjoying ourselves. Outside the cave, the vegetation was lush, and among it, a mountain stream flowed down layer by layer along the secluded cliffs and ancient rocks, forming a multi-tiered waterfall, like pearls scattered by the Goddess of Heaven or a hundred-zhang white curtain hanging from the sky. It truly lived up to the description in ancient poetry: “The waterfall falls like the sound of a jade zither, the cliff walls white with rain.” Thanks to this stream, the sweltering summer heat is dissipated, and with the shade of trees and dense grass forming a natural barrier, a microclimate has been created where “the cave stays moist without rain, and feels autumnal without wind”—a perfect summer retreat. It seems that the wise Li Yuming indeed had a unique eye for finding such a tranquil “spring mountain empty with birdsong” spot, benefiting many students.

Old Huang told us that whenever major exams such as the preliminary or college entrance exams approach, many students, accompanied by their parents, flock to the mountain to soak up the spiritual energy of the Scholars’ Cave. They enter the temple, face the statue of the Manifest Response Patriarch, diligently burn incense, and respectfully kowtow, praying for their dreams to come true. As the saying goes, “Cramming at the last minute”—but if students could understand sooner the value of coming to the Scholars’ Cave and embracing this peaceful world, they would surely gain some insight...

　A crisp sound pulled our drifting thoughts back from the clouds, and we had no choice but to descend slowly. Unable to sleep all night, I couldn’t help but get up, turn on my laptop, and jot down my clumsy verses...

Long stone steps / lead me back to the quietest part of my soul / on the pyramid-shaped mountainside / hangs an ancient temple weathered by time / the silent Buddha statue high above looks straight ahead, unblinking / while the restless crowd bustles noisily below

Stepping through the mountain temple gate / crossing the Scholars’ Bridge / treading on the clouds beneath my feet / entering that cave world filled with wisdom / just close your eyes slightly / Lin Hongxing, Lin Denghe, Lin Keyu, Lin Damao... / all come forward / and discuss scriptures and philosophy with me

“Entering the ancient temple at dawn...” / I clumsily imitate their manner / gently waving my wide, thick sleeves / brushing down rays of auspicious light

Flowing Water Scatters into a Thousand Scenes

The most profound impression I got from Hong'enyan in one day was the lively streams hidden among the cracks in the rocks and clumps of grass. Three tributaries, like three country wives hurrying to market, come down from the mountaintop. Upon reaching the front of the rock temple, they converge and then chatter endlessly as they rush together toward the foothills. Don’t underestimate these three tributaries—they are the ones that nourish the scattered attractions throughout the scenic area, bringing them to life with vibrant charm.

Some drip-drop like little monks tirelessly striking wooden fish; some chatter like wandering poets softly chanting; some rush forth noisily as if someone is singing rock songs without a care in the world. Each stream, with its unique personality, nourishes different scenic views.

On the east side of the scenic area, along both sides of the stream, small ancient wooden houses, delicate Guanyin Pavilions, elegant Guanyin Pools, serene Sun-Moon Lakes, and uniquely interesting Hundred Forms of Strange Rocks are strung together like beads, adorning the area from top to bottom.

Most captivating is the pool of emerald water guarded by the Guanyin statue, making one wonder if it might be sweet spring water leaking from her pure vase? Beneath Fenglong Bridge, the pool is boat-shaped, with clear and clean depths, more inflow than outflow. Local legend vividly describes how the pool is connected to the South China Sea, claiming that scooping or praying to the pool water can bring sunshine or rain. Though the legends are more far-fetched, standing at the “stern” of the pool and looking up at the white jade Guanyin at the top, one can’t help but feel a sense of “serenity in observation, the mind is Buddha.”

“Let’s go, Fan Bingbing is waiting!” Unable to rest, our companion Xiao Lin joked. Crossing Fenglong Bridge and entering the valley within the bridge, we saw the small wooden house where celebrity Fan Bingbing once stayed—a structure modeled after Song Dynasty architecture, built with bamboo and wood, with a thatched roof. Inside, the tables, chairs, beds, and cabinets are all woven from bamboo, and porcelain tea sets such as tea cups and pots are all available. Being there, sipping tea and chatting, naturally meant enjoying “celebrity-level” treatment.

The streams on the west side of the scenic area, due to the sudden rise in mountain terrain, become deep and rapid. The Hundred-Zhang Waterfall and the Grand Hall also exhibit a majestic and heroic atmosphere. A waterfall, like a dragon descending the mountain, surges and leaps along the contours of the mountain, its long watercourse resonating with a powerful rhythm, splashing water droplets, and occasionally catching the light, draping the surrounding trees in beads and colors, creating a unique spectacle. The Anxi County Annals have long recorded the Hundred-Zhang Waterfall: “The waterfall plunges over a hundred zhang, with secluded and lush woods.”