The ancient hot spring closest to the airport — 4 must-visit spots at Japan’s "Yamanaka Onsen"

Photos and text by Kiya

As autumn and winter approach, bringing cooler weather, it's hard not to crave soaking in a hot spring to enjoy the warmth of the mineral waters. With autumn in full swing, I visited Yamanaka Onsen in the Kaga Onsen region, known as the "backyard of Kansai" in Japan, to soak in the baths, admire the maple leaves, and take a stroll through the hot spring town to experience the unique charm of Ishikawa Prefecture.

▲ The Yamanaka Onsen town, one of the Kaga Onsen resorts.

The "Kaga Onsen" area is located in the southern part of Ishikawa Prefecture in Japan’s Hokuriku region, consisting ofYamanaka Onsen, Yamashiro Onsen, Kaga Onsen, and Awazu Onsen. Although collectively called the Kaga Onsen region, the famous "Kagaya" is not located here. Though also from Ishikawa Prefecture, Kagaya belongs to Wakura Onsen, so be sure not to go to the wrong place.

The Yamanaka Onsen I visited this time is beautiful in all seasons, but autumn is the most recommended time to come. The vast red leaves dye the entire hot spring town and the surrounding mountains, making it one of Ishikawa Prefecture’s popular maple-viewing spots. If you arrive via Komatsu Airport, it’s just a 30-minute bus ride away, which is very convenient.

▲ Yamanaka Onsen shares a deep connection with Japan’s haiku master Matsuo Bashō. A wooden plaque engraved with his famous verse “In Yamanaka, no one plucks chrysanthemums; the hot spring water carries fragrance.” stands in a corner of the Tsurusenkei Promenade.

Surrounded by forests, Yamanaka Onsen is said to have a history of 1,300 years and was already a well-known hot spring resort in ancient times. Even Matsuo Bashō was enthralled by its stunning views, penning the famous line: “In Yamanaka, no one plucks chrysanthemums; the hot spring water carries fragrance,” and ranked Yamanaka Onsen among Japan’s top three hot springs alongside Arima Onsen and Dogo Onsen.Thanks to Matsuo Bashō, Yamanaka Onsen has become even more famous, and statues or memorials related to him can be seen in many spots around town.

Yamanaka Onsen has three must-cross bridges: Kuroya Bridge, Ayatori Bridge, and Kirigirisu Bridge, which are located at the beginning, middle, and end of the Tsurusenkei Promenade respectively. The hotel I stayed at, Kawanari Royal Hotel, is just a one-minute walk from Ayatori Bridge, so we started our day’s stroll from there.

▲ One of the must-visit spots in Yamanaka Onsen, Ayatori Bridge.

With its striking purple-red design,Ayatori Bridge (あやとりはし)resembles a dragon coiled amidst the forested mountains. Designed by the renowned ikebana artist Hiroshi Kawara of the Sogetsu school, the bridge’s shape resembles a traditional Japanese kusudama (flower ball), earning it the nicknames “Knot Rope Bridge” or “Flower Ball Bridge.”

Looking down from the bridge, you can see the Tsurusenkei Stream flowing gently beneath. Unfortunately, my visit was a bit early, and only parts of the surrounding red leaves had begun to turn. If you visit around November, you can admire the fiery red maple leaves lining both sides of the stream. Along the Tsurusenkei Stream, there is also a Tsurusenkei Kawayuka (riverbed terrace) that serves matcha cake and tea—extremely popular during the autumn leaf and cherry blossom seasons.

▲ The Tsurusenkei Kawayuka by the Tsurusenkei Stream. As I visited early, an elderly lady was arranging the seating in preparation for incoming guests.

Back in the Yamanaka Onsen hot spring town, wandering among the historic traditional wooden buildings, the fresh air carries a subtle, soothing woody scent. Aside from the shops selling a variety of local souvenirs and traditional dishes, our guide also reminded us to look down at the stone-paved path—thanks to someone’s clever idea, hidden among the stones are patterns like hearts, spades, clubs, and four-leaf clovers, adding another layer of fun to the trip.

▲ The Yamanaka Onsen streets are filled with charming details like these hidden symbols in the stonework.