A Journey Through Old and New Aesthetics at the Century-Old "Presidential Retreat" Alishan Guesthouse

Text and Photos / Yu Tian

I remember my last visit to Alishan was back in kindergarten—holding my parents' hands, strolling along the railway tracks, with little memory beyond the tracks and the mist. It’s been far too long. This time, decades later, I finally got the chance to return, driving solo from Taipei to Alishan for a mini trip that’s half work, half vacation. The five-hour drive isn’t far, especially compared to the often-treacherous Taiwan Provincial Highway 9 I usually take on my way home. This stretch is easy to drive, the mountain roads are beautiful, and it’s a very pleasant road trip.

This trip to Alishan, I’d like to divide into three parts to introduce—the three distinctive and memorable experiences: the century-old building (Historical Building), the new building (Modern Building), and the internationally renowned surrounding attractions.

The Century-Old “Alishan Guesthouse – Historical Building”

▲ Night view of the exterior of the Historical Building, with lights decorating the branches, creating a lively atmosphere in the quiet mountains.

The night view of this historical landmark, the “Presidential Retreat,” feels particularly retro, as if a time machine has taken you back to the 1950s. The fiery red carpet echoes the scent of hinoki wood. Stepping into the hinoki wood counter of the old lobby is your first impression of the Historical Building’s connection to the olden days.

▲ You can imagine the solemn scene of past leaders holding discussions here.

The entire old building section is constructed from hinoki wood. The precise mortise-and-tenon craftsmanship, using no nails at all, has allowed it to be preserved intact to this day. One can’t help but admire the wisdom of the ancestors in architecture. This place once hosted Japanese governors-general and both Chinese and foreign heads of state. At the time, it was also known as the foremost accommodation on Taiwan’s foremost mountain, with every corner telling the historical legacy of this prestigious site.

▲ Left / Past Chinese and foreign heads of state who stayed here; Right / Corridor outside the presidential suite.

The photo exhibition along the corridor focuses on Alishan’s past. During the Japanese colonial period, the Japanese carried out large-scale logging here and built the Alishan Forest Railway to transport timber. They heavily developed the Baxianshan and Taipingshan timber forests to profit from forestry—only then did we get the internationally renowned Alishan Railway and the famous forest trains. It’s a bit ironic and sorrowful, to say the least.

▲ 1950s-style café.

I really love this nostalgic 1950s-style café, playing songs like “Night Shanghai.” The atmosphere is very much of that era. There’s always soft lighting, and you’ll often hear classic oldies. Coffee aroma and old melodies come together to recreate warm, beautiful moments from the past.

The fresh mountain air greets your eyes, and occasionally a light breeze brushes against your feet, making you feel as though you’re sitting on a cloud in heaven.

▲ The old cherry blossom tree at the entrance of the Historical Building—does it not feel like you’ve arrived in Japan?

▲ Photo / Yu Tian (acrylic on canvas)

The old cherry blossom tree at the entrance of the Historical Building has withstood a century of wind and frost, lending the historic façade a very Japanese-era inn-like charm. In recent years, Taiwan has seen a constant stream of luxurious, modern hotels, but only Alishan Guesthouse carries such deep historical significance, deeply rooted in this famous mountain land. With the honor of hosting numerous past Chinese and foreign heads of state, this distinction and historical meaning are irreplaceable.

The ‘Modern Building’ with a Brand-New Look

▲ Night view of the exterior of the Modern Building, a layered structure that bridges past and present, with waterfalls harmonizing naturally with the mountain forest.

The interior spaces are bright with natural light and softened tones. The high-ceilinged lobby of the new building blends hinoki-toned design elements with the Historical Building seamlessly and naturally.

The spacious rooms are also very much to my liking.