Executive Chef Kwong Wai-keung is devoted to traditional Cantonese cuisine. Hong Kong’s “T’ang Court” earns Michelin three-star rating

This “star-winning” honor is largely thanks to Executive Chef Kwong Wai-keung, who joined the industry at the age of 13 and took the helm at T’ang Court over 20 years ago. Now nearly 60 years old, Chef Kwong has always remained committed to “authentic Cantonese cuisine.” Has his mindset changed after winning the award? The humble chef simply said, “Before getting three stars or now, I’m the same!” When pressed further for the secret to earning three stars, he smiled and replied, “The dishes aren’t much different from last year; it’s just that our team has matured, our cooking skills have improved, and maybe that’s it!” Once again, we see the gentle, modest, and quintessentially Hong Kong-style elegance of the man behind the stars.

“I often tell them (the chefs), the most important thing about being a chef is, would you eat what you cook yourself?” If you wouldn’t eat it yourself, how can you serve it to guests? As the head chef of a restaurant, one must not only create great dishes but also take on the responsibility of guiding junior chefs and devising ways to manage the team. Whenever he conceptualizes new dishes, he always demonstrates first before discussing them.He admitted frankly, “With young chefs these days, the most important thing is not to damage their self-esteem!” In the past, mentors used to scold apprentices harshly, with unlimited reproach: “You’re useless, just like a char siu!” It’s surprising how non-vulgar Hong Kong-style humor can be linked with cured meats.

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As times change, one thing remains unchanged—Chef Kwong’s “devotion” to traditional Cantonese cuisine.He pointed out that there are two essences of Guangdong cuisine: First, “Cantonese cuisine values wok hei (breath of the wok)” – for common seafood and delicacies, the key lies in controlling the heat. Insufficient heat fails to bring out the aroma of the ingredients, while too much affects the texture; second is “eating in season,” such as eating snake soup for nourishment in cold weather, which would be too heating in summer.Guangdong cuisine emphasizes seasonal eating, which is also why T’ang Court updates its menu monthly and offers a “monthly feature” menu.

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