In my previous article, I wrote about my trip to Ishigaki. After leaving Ishigaki on an eco-tour, my next destination was Okinawa. Okinawa boasts many famous attractions such as Okinawa Churaumi Aquarium, Manzamo, Kerama Islands, and Ocean Expo Park. Most of these attractions are located in and around Nago/Naha, so to save travel time, I recommend staying in Nago. Additionally, light pollution in Nago is minimal, making stargazing by the seaside an exceptional experience at night.
I took a domestic flight from Ishigaki to Naha Airport. Since I flew with Vanilla Airline, I landed at the low-cost carrier terminal. As the name suggests, the facilities in the low-cost terminal are certainly not as comprehensive as those in other domestic or international terminals. From what I saw, apart from souvenir shops, airline counters (Vanilla/Peach), and some car rental desks, there were no dining options, and the environment felt rather cramped (possibly due to peak season), so I didn’t want to linger. Fortunately, the car rental company I booked provided pick-up service. After collecting my luggage, I headed straight to the rental desk, waited just 5–10 minutes, and was soon on my way in a reserved vehicle. Other travelers who arranged rentals upon arrival had to wait longer.
If you’re only visiting Naha in Okinawa, the monorail and buses are quite convenient. But if you plan to go to Nago and Naha areas where attractions are more spread out, driving is the ideal choice, which is why I opted for a self-drive tour this time. After picking up the car, I had a quick meal and short rest in Naha City before hitting the highway heading for Nago. The drive takes about two hours, so I suggest stopping by the midway rest area, Yui-no-shuku. It has restrooms, convenience stores, and eateries, but note that shops tend to close around dusk (after all, Yui is just a small station).
(Photo taken at Yui rest stop, it was almost dusk and some small shops had already closed)
After resting at Yui, I continued northbound toward the end of the highway where another rest area, the famous Churaumi Rest Stop (also known as Hateruma or xudao rest stop), is located. Hateruma is the largest rest stop, with fully equipped restrooms, eateries, and souvenir shops—definitely worth a visit. For those driving southbound to Naha, one highlight not to miss is the gas stations, because even within the same brand, prices vary by location. Gas stations near Naha City and Naha Airport are the most expensive. Heading southbound on the highway toward Naha, Hateruma is your last stop, so it’s the best place to refuel at a lower price.
(The photo below shows the restroom at Hateruma rest stop—it’s huge...)
(The rest stop also has souvenir shops and eateries)
Since I’m writing a travelogue, I don’t mind sharing everything with you. On my previous self-drive trip to Okinawa, the car rental included a full tank of gas, so I never had to refuel. This time, during my six-day trip covering various places, one tank wasn’t enough, so I finally got the chance to refuel. My tip: most gas stations in Okinawa operate on a self-service basis—you fill up the tank yourself. Standing in front of the machine, I was stunned to see all Japanese text. Luckily, Okinawans are quite friendly. I found an uncle nearby who helped guide me (I don’t know if he understood my English, but a mix of gestures and broken language worked). Newbies might ask—how do you know when the tank is full? No need to look at your car’s dashboard. Just keep filling until it's full—the nozzle will “click” and stop dispensing fuel (technically, you can sometimes squeeze out a bit more after the click, but I won’t explain the car mechanics here). Here’s the process: pay (I used cash at the machine) > fill gas > take receipt > go to another machine for change.
The photo below shows three types of fuel: red/yellow/green. Which one should you choose? Your rental car company’s menu will indicate that—don’t choose the wrong type.
After leaving Hateruma rest stop, I drove along the coast toward Nago. It was dusk, and watching the sun slowly dip below the horizon was truly beautiful. But be careful not to get too distracted by the scenery—roads are mostly dual-lane with speeds up to 70 km/h or more, and there are traffic lights. Stay focused. If you want to take photos, it’s best to stop at designated pull-off areas. I once encountered a car ahead suddenly slowing down and pulling over to take pictures, turning the dual-lane road into a single lane. Not paying attention and failing to brake in time could be very dangerous, so for your safety and others’, always use pull-off spots for photos.
(Dusk scenery)
(Another self-drive option is cycling—if I were in my 20s, I’d consider it)
(The car in front to the left had stopped by the roadside—dangerous if you’re not careful)
Back to the itinerary—I rented a house outside Nago (near Sesoko Island), a three-story home where my family of three stayed. I highly recommend renting a whole house—it’s not only more spacious but also allows you to control your own schedule. From my past experience staying at a local homestay, living under the same roof with the Okinawan owner meant we had slightly different daily rhythms, which was a bit inconvenient. Hong Kongers are used to going to bed late and often go out at night (especially in Naha, where nightlife is common). But Okinawa isn’t a big city—locals usually start resting by 9 pm. The difference in lifestyle pace can be a little challenging.
I encourage everyone to rent a homestay with a kitchen. You can buy groceries—vegetables, meat, and fruit—at local supermarkets (much cheaper than in Hong Kong). In Hong Kong, life moves too fast, and we often forget how to enjoy food. On a trip to Japan, you can slow down and savor it. Nago City isn’t particularly bustling. If you want premium ingredients, you’ll have to go to larger supermarkets in Naha City. But if you’re not too picky, Nago’s supermarket offerings are decent. For food, in Ishigaki, of course, you eat Ishigaki beef. In Naha’s high-end supermarkets, you can find Ishigaki beef too (but it’s definitely more expensive than in Ishigaki). But in Okinawa, my recommendation is Aguu pork. I bought some pork chops from the supermarket, pan-fried them at the homestay, sprinkled with a bit of sea salt I bought in Ishigaki, and it was absolutely delicious. For vegetables, bitter melon (a local specialty) is a must. For dessert, try the local mangoes (in season during summer)—they’re big, sweet, and widely available (pineapples are great too but take time to cut). Melons are also in season. In short, Japanese fruits are really good.
(Post-dinner stroll to enjoy the night view)
(The opposite shore is Sesoko Island)
This time, I’m introducing Kerama Islands. Before entering the island, you can take some photos at the observatory on the Kerama Bridge.
Next up is the highlight of the day—eating sea urchin rice. I chose the restaurant shown in the photo below (take a left after entering the island, head uphill toward the mountains, not toward the Ocean Tower).(Not the Ocean Tower direction)）
(The restaurant has only four parking spaces—please take note)
(This sea urchin set meal is 2500 yen, served with a full bowl of rice—this price would be impossible in Hong Kong)
(The restaurant offers a view of the Kerama Bridge—eating while admiring the scenery is fantastic)
(After the meal, you can take photos nearby)
Underneath the Kerama Bridge is a sandy beach. If you’re into water activities, you can head to this beach. There are also plenty of eateries and souvenir shops in the area. As far as I know, there are some glass-bottom boats nearby for underwater sightseeing, though I didn’t see any scheduled tours being offered.
(Beach under the Kerama Bridge—many people were swimming and enjoying water activities. Some eateries near the beach offer free rinsing facilities, but of course, they expect you to patronize their shop. That’s understandable, right?)
Last year when I visited Kerama Island, it was already dusk. By the time I arrived, the shops were closed, and the beachgoers had left. I only stayed briefly before leaving. This trip to Kerama Island finally completed a goal from the previous year.
The next stop after leaving Kouri Island is the Okinawa Churaumi Aquarium. I actually visited the aquarium last year, but felt something was missing without going again, so I came back. I’d like to remind everyone that the aquarium has specific schedules for different shows, dolphin feedings, and staff-led whale shark feedings, so it’s best to plan ahead before you go. There are many exhibits at the Okinawa Churaumi Aquarium, as well as gardens—you can easily spend a full day exploring if you have the time.
(Seeing the whale shark is a must-do activity.)
Whale shark footage? https://photos.app.goo.gl/vx5VSRa3MKvrnqNp9
(There are also starfish and other marine life to see.)
(You can also feed the dolphins.)
My itinerary for the day was to head to the Okinawa Churaumi Aquarium in the morning, watch some shows, then feed the dolphins, followed by lunch and photos on Kouri Island, then back to the aquarium to see the whale shark, and finally returning to the nearby supermarket near my guesthouse to buy groceries and cook dinner, ending the day with a relaxing walk by the seaside—truly a perfect day.
I stayed in Nago for four days, and of course didn’t miss attractions like Nakijin Castle Ruins and Ryukyu Village, but there are simply too many interesting spots in and around Nago to list them all. In summary, my trip to Nago was perfect—with great weather, amazing sights, delicious food, and comfortable accommodations. Next stop: Naha City.