Tales of the Old Town: A Journey to Discover National-Treasure-Level Handicrafts

Text/Photo Report by Chen Guanxin, MOOK Travel Life Network (HowToTrip); Source/MOOK Editorial Department

 

Since the Dutch colonial period, Tainan has played the role of Taiwan’s premier city for over two hundred years. To this day, although Tainan has stepped down from its capital status, the local traditional trades continue to shine brightly amid the passage of time, weaving together the most realistic aspects of daily life. From the old rice street—now Xinmei Street—all the way to the former official road that leads to Ziqiang Street, clusters of national-treasure-level master artisans are found among incense shops, embroidery workshops, lantern makers, paper stores, and pastry shops. Here you can also catch a glimpse of traditional folk beliefs. In particular, Tainan’s century-old businesses have passed on their legacy through generations, crafting incense, pastries, tea, and even tatami entirely by hand, impressing even foreign tourists.

 

With thin streams of smoke curling from the incense burner, a single stick of incense carries deep devotion, dissipating countless worldly affairs. A good stick of incense is passed down through generations. As one of Tainan’s century-old establishments, Wu Wan-chun Incense Shop has remained committed to traditional methods of incense making, using only natural ingredients and handmade craftsmanship to keep the “flame” of tradition alive. Located next to the Tainan Sìdiǎn Wǔ Miào (Sacrificial Rites Martial Temple), the first generation founder was Wu Wan-chun, followed by the second-generation Wu Sen-yuan, a well-known local figure who served as neighborhood chief for an impressive 53 years. Now, the venerable 80-year-old Madame Chen Lian continues to uphold the legacy of the incense shop.

 

[Info] Wu Wan-chun Incense Shop

Address: No. 217, Section 2, Yongfu Road, West Central District, Tainan City

Phone: 06-222-6842

Dubbed the “Tainan Embroidery Talent,” Master Lin Yu-quan has been practicing traditional embroidery for half a century. Beyond promoting embroidery culture through teaching, he has also created practical embroidered items such as shoes and bags. His butterfly-ribbon embroidery caught the attention of a Japanese designer, leading to his work appearing on the Milan Fashion Week stage and putting a unique Taiwanese spotlight on the international scene. Master Lin says that traditional embroidery mainly includes designs like the Eight Immortals tapestry, table skirts, and divine robes, all essential for weddings or moving into new homes.

 

[Info] Guangcai Embroidery Shop

Address: No. 186-3, Section 2, Yongfu Road, West Central District, Tainan City

Phone: 06-227-1253

 

Having stood for 150 years, Zhenfa Tea House has become a tourist attraction in Tainan. Japanese travel guides often feature this century-old Tainan shop, where visitors from Japan are frequently seen. The shop’s antique tea barrels, tin containers, and cypress money chests are priceless treasures. The 90-year-old owner, Yan Can-cheng, still greets customers. The stories of this century-old shop linger in the air like the rich fragrance of tea. One of the most memorable sights in the shop is the rows of old tea barrels, with tin cans labeled with place names from Wuyi Mountain in Fujian. The owner says these handmade tin barrels were brought over from the Chinese mainland’s Tangshan over 100 years ago. Despite high offers from collectors, he refuses to sell them and plans to leave them to Tainan’s history museum as cultural relics. Aside from the antique pieces, Zhenfa Tea House still wraps tea in oil paper in the traditional way. After hand-packaging, the owner stamps the tea shop’s seal on the package, symbolizing not just the shop’s reputation but also a deep respect for tea.

 

[Info] Zhenfa Tea House

Address: No. 137, Section 1, Minquan Road, West Central District, Tainan City

Phone: 06-222-3532

Walking along Xinmei Street, where Tainan’s old trades are most concentrated, a row of old wooden houses preserves the most authentic look of an old street. A small green sign reading “Quanxing Tatami” doesn’t stand out much, just like most traditional trades, living day by day and working as a matter of routine. Quanxing Tatami is home to Tainan’s national-treasure-level tatami master, Li Jin-shui. Starting as an apprentice at age 16, he has been making tatami for nearly 70 years and has produced over 100,000 mats. Today, his grandson, Li Zong-xun, carries on the legacy. Making tatami requires both excellent sewing skills and precise knife work. First, measure the straw mat with a wooden ruler, then cut it with a chopping knife, lay the matting, sew the edges with a cloth needle, and finally tighten the stitches with a hook. Only then is a flat tatami mat complete. Elders say it takes “three years and six months to master the craft.” Watching the master’s cuts and stitches, you can feel the warmth of traditional craftsmanship and witness the exquisite skill of Taiwan’s local handicrafts.

 

[Info] Quanxing Tatami

Address: No. 46, Xinmei Street, West Central District, Tainan City

Phone: 06-222-5227