Kyoto Secret Trip: Book a Morning Onsen-Style Brunch by the River

By TRAVELER Luxe, Interview & Report by Liao Hongxin

 

“Young lady, what’s this place?” A man with a thick Kyoto accent peered curiously into the shop. “Why not just go in and see?” I replied. And just like that, we inadvertently attracted two more groups of customers. If you were standing at the entrance of Kawa Café かわカフェ, you’d probably be curious too. Passing through a narrow stone path, you’ll find a summer-green vista at the end. Imagine sitting in a space with wide floor-to-ceiling windows, enjoying my personal riverside brunch, complemented by the gentle morning light of the Kamo River.

Opened in early April 2012, Kawa Café is the Kamo River annex of the renowned French restaurant à peu près (フランス料理店ア．プ．プレ) located in Karasuma-Gojo, Kyoto. Housed in a traditional machiya townhouse, the café serves light French kaiseki cuisine crafted by a female chef, blending the essence of three-Michelin-star French techniques with local Kyoto vegetables (kyo-yasai). Upon opening, à peu près quickly gained popularity, even becoming a top choice for those seeking a “mini luxury trip” (プチ贅沢) in Japan. However, à peu près recently adjusted its business model, discontinuing its lunch service that offered authentic French cuisine at affordable prices, and focusing solely on dinner service — a change that left many regulars disappointed.

 

But Chef Mizuho Takemura hasn’t forgotten her original goal: to make French cuisine more accessible to everyone. Thus, with the charm of the Kamo River and light French fare, the riverside café — Kawa Café かわカフェ — was born.

Sharing food and sharing views — that’s the sole mission of Kawa Café, which is why it opened an affordable coffee shop in the competitive world of riverside kaiseki dining. The term “kawadoko” (川床) refers to the open-air dining platforms set up along rivers such as the Kamo River, as well as in areas like Kibune and Takao, during Kyoto’s summer months from June to September. Restaurants build elevated terraces over or beside the streams, allowing guests to dine facing the verdant shades of midsummer or enjoy the cool evening breezes, all while savoring seasonal dishes made with fresh summer ingredients. Experiencing Kyoto’s elegant scenery and indulging in limited-time seasonal cuisine is something the locals look forward to most. Despite prices often exceeding 10,000 yen, these spots are in high demand — sometimes you can’t even secure a seat even if you’re willing to pay.

 

So from the moment I laid eyes on Kawa Café’s spacious terrace, it sparked my imagination for a riverside brunch — the café, built from a traditional Kyoto townhouse, retained its structure but removed the wall facing the sun. Push open the large floor-to-ceiling windows, and you step out onto the open-air terrace. In the sweltering summer heat, there’s nothing better than sitting leisurely in the air-conditioned comfort, watching the people of Kyoto strolling or cycling along the opposite bank, their figures flowing like a painted scroll amidst the lush greenery. I look forward to early autumn when the through-draft from the open windows greets me, and the vivid greens transform into golden hues — a completely different charm.

 

The interior has a simple American country style, with white walls adorned with vintage photos and old advertisements. A casual browse evokes the whimsical imagination of early encounters with foreign cultures. Furniture, flooring, ceilings, and beams — new and old, American home aesthetics and traditional Japanese townhouse elements — blend seamlessly, extending the slow, serene vibe of the ancient capital.

There’s nothing better than enjoying brunch by the river. The French toast brunch (Pain perdu) includes slices of French bread soaked in egg and milk, pan-fried to golden crispness, served with strawberry jam. Bitter arugula is tossed with tangy Italian vinaigrette, paired with silky buttery eggs and crispy bacon — refreshing yet filling, complemented by a café au lait. Even the riverside kaiseki here adopts an upscale vibe: simple, yet embodying à peu près’ signature balance of elegance and flavor. For lunch, try the Les Tartines, a pizza bread topped with ratatouille and mozzarella — slice generously into the baguette, pile it high with a stew made from summer vegetables like tomatoes, eggplants, bell peppers, zucchini, herbs, bacon, and more, then layer with mozzarella and bake lightly. The melted, rich cheese flows alongside the tender texture of the ratatouille, and the bread, soaked with vegetable juices — carbs truly are the best comfort food on a trip.

 

Lunch also offers other light options like sandwiches, savory pies, and daily specials. By 12 pm, the place is bustling with patrons. At the next table, a group of Japanese moms with kids enjoy a meal, watching their children dig in with gusto, leaving a delightful mess on the table. Dinner features French countryside-style dishes, where you can casually order a few wine-paired items or enjoy a full French course.

 

All day long, you’re accompanied by the bright sunlight over the Kamo River, the vibrant greens of midsummer, and your very own riverside daydreaming spot — hidden just a five-minute walk between Kyoto’s bustling Gion and Kawaramachi districts, at the townhouse café Kawa Café.

 

 

● Extended Reading:

Not Just Tokyo: Weekend Getaways to the Suburbs

http://goo.gl/f70jwM