Recommended by Yilan Ye, time-honored eateries beloved by locals in Tainan

There’s a saying: “Every person from Tainan has their own food map.” We asked every Tainan local we met, and there’s plenty of evidence to support this claim. In Yilan Ye’s observation, Tainan locals can be quite stubborn and proud about the flavors they’ve come to trust. Beyond what Shu Guozhi mentioned — that Tainan people only eat at the old shops they approve of — the high standard and generous portions of Tainan street food have led locals to form their own opinions. Their acceptance of these old shops also involves emotional and proximity factors. Yilan Ye laughs and says that living in the Dongmen area, unless strongly motivated, her food explorations used to revolve around her neighborhood. It wasn’t until she started working in the industry that, “out of curiosity, my food map became much broader.” The local diners we met at A Tang Salty Porridge were the same.

 

Tainan breakfasts are known for their variety and generous portions. Yilan Ye says this may be related to the former lifestyle — to fuel a day’s labor, people needed protein and nutrients, hence meals that were nearly as substantial as lunch. Later on, it’s also connected to Tainan’s slower pace of life, giving people time to enjoy breakfast leisurely. Yilan Ye remarks, “At nine or ten in the morning, I wonder where all the customers come from?” Aside from quality, portion size also matters — even at cafes, breakfasts are filling, typically including salad, fruit, bacon or ham with eggs (or a sandwich), plus a drink, all for just over a hundred Taiwan dollars.

 

Japanese food critic Junichiro Tanizaki sometimes exercised caution in his writing, omitting the names of favorite spots to avoid a flood of visitors compromising the dining experience. When it comes to recommending Tainan street food, Yilan Ye also feels hesitant — some family-favorite street stalls, once recommended or featured, become crowded with customers, leading to long queues. Yilan Ye half-jokes, “My family isn’t happy about it.” But we still asked Yilan Ye to share a few breakfast spots favored by Tainan locals.

Upon hearing this, Yilan Ye said: “Salty porridge is a must; I recommend A Tang Salty Porridge.” Among several options, Yilan Ye chose A Tang for two reasons: besides the classic milkfish salty porridge, their mudskippers salty porridge is equally delicious. The mudskippers are salted, pan-fried, then simmered with rice — the fish remains firm without falling apart, and the grains are rich and satisfying. The umami and fatty richness are why Yilan Ye recommends it, but “taste compatibility” is also key. She adds, “In Tainan, fresh seafood is caught early in the morning and eaten by noon — that’s the rule.” It makes sense that A Tang Salty Porridge only serves breakfast.

 

Nearby, at A Cun Beef Soup, Yilan Ye’s verdict is: “Completely convinced.” You can tell A Cun’s philosophy on ingredients just by their opening hours: 18:00–24:00 and 4:00–12:00. Cattle are slaughtered once each in the evening and early morning, perfectly aligned with when ingredients are fresh. Yilan Ye says, “That’s Tainan-style fussiness.” At A Cun Beef Soup, freshly slaughtered beef is sliced and served in a bowl, then topped with broth made from beef bones, white radish, and onions. The beef soup comes with a side of soy sauce mixed with ginger shreds — dip the beef in and enjoy. The tender slices literally melt in your mouth, while the ginger adds layers of flavor. The soy sauce, sweetened with sugar, is quite sweet; whether to dip or not is up to personal taste.

 

Yuanhuan Ding Vegetable Zongzi was a Sunday breakfast staple for Yilan Ye growing up. Tainan’s street food often has a long history — Yuanhuan Ding has been around since the 1950s, named for its original location near Dongmen Roundabout. The zongzi, made with bamboo leaves, peanuts, and glutinous rice, is delightfully simple. Open it up and a fragrant aroma wafts out — its rustic charm lets the true taste of the ingredients shine through.

At Deep Blue Café, famous for its thousand-layer cake, you’ll find a Western breakfast recommended by Yilan Ye. Deep Blue offers three breakfast options, with their finger sandwiches showcasing Tainan’s attention to detail — not just a regular sandwich, but one wrapped in egg skin as well. Yilan Ye also mentions, “Breakfast always includes salad and fruit for balanced nutrition; tea is always served in a teapot — it’s sincere and thoughtful.” Why wrap the sandwiches in egg skin? It turns out the idea came from owner Lin Zhaoyin when preparing food for a friend’s tea party — the concept was easy to serve. After receiving positive feedback, the practice continued as part of Deep Blue’s breakfast menu.

As a once-bustling marketplace, West Market is home to several famous eateries. Before visiting the Minju Xie Residence, owner Xie Wenkan took us on a quick walk around West Market. Near the exit to Guohua Street, we first spotted Ah Rui’s Pasta. Xie Wenkan greeted the chef and told us that he’s been eating here since childhood — the current fourth-generation owner, Ye Wenting, is actually his junior from school.

 

Both pasta and wontons are highlights at Ah Rui’s Pasta, but the pasta is truly the soul — chewy with a fragrant wheat aroma. If you get there early, you might not even see the owner — because he’s still making noodles at home. Apparently, noodles used to be sold wholesale, but now due to limited quantities, they’re only available at the shop. Many customers love the dry stir-fried pasta, while the soup version, simmered with lean pork, is light yet flavorful. Even in hot weather, if you’re not in a rush, try a bowl of soup pasta and slowly savor it, while glancing at the colorful ledger shop next door — it’s quite the experience.