By TRAVELER Luxe Traveler Magazine, reported by Ren Xiang
The Chūgoku region of Japan is also known as San'in and San'yō, the land of Japanese mythology and a treasure trove of the country’s nature and culture. Starting this July, JR West will launch the new “San’in & Okayama Area Pass,” offering a fresh way to explore the JR San’yō Main Line and San’in Main Line that run through the five prefectures of Okayama, Hiroshima, Yamaguchi, Shimane, and Tottori—experience the beauty of both urban and rural areas firsthand.
The five-story pagoda on Miyajima is closely connected to the Senjōkaku Hall, ingeniously blending Japanese and Tang-style architectural elements, with its vermilion structure standing at the foot of Mount Misen. (Image courtesy of TRAVELER Luxe Traveler Magazine, Ren Xiang)
The Chūgoku region lies at the westernmost part of Honshu, Japan’s main island, and is divided into northern and southern sections by the Chūgoku Mountain Range. The sunnier southern side, facing the Seto Inland Sea, is called San’yō, while the less sunny northern side, facing the Sea of Japan, is called San'in. This summer, escape the hustle and bustle of the city and embark on a soul-soothing railway journey by train.
Stepping into the Realm of Legends
This journey begins at the Kanmon Strait. Following in the footsteps of the legendary swordsman Sasaki Kojirō—from Ganryū Island to Iwakuni—we take the San’yō Shinkansen eastward to Hiroshima. Miyajima, located offshore from Hiroshima, has long been regarded as the island of the goddess. Its iconic torii gate and the main hall of Itsukushima Shrine appear to float on the sea during high tide, creating a breathtaking seascape especially when set against the glow of the setting sun—truly worthy of being one of Japan’s Three Great Views.
Legend has it that the swordsman Sasaki Kojirō was born in Iwakuni, and he mastered his secret technique, the “Swallow Reversal,” practicing against willow leaves and swallows by the Kintai Bridge. (Image courtesy of TRAVELER Luxe Traveler Magazine, Ren Xiang)
The train arrives in Okayama, the hometown of Momotarō, accompanied by the blue skies and waters of the Seto Inland Sea. Amid the serene atmosphere created by Okayama Korakuen Garden and Kurashiki’s Kuruizaki Street, we conclude our San’yō region leg of the trip.
Shimane, the Land of the Gods
At the break of dawn, we board the limited express Yakumo (やくも) from Okayama to begin our San’in journey. My first impressions of Matsue in Shimane are of Edo-period architecture and flowing water. Thanks to the absence of wars and earthquakes, the wooden structures here have been well preserved to this day. Matsue Castle is one of the few remaining original castles in Japan, and from the observation deck atop its tenshu (main keep), you can gaze out over...
The Yakumo (八云) runs between Okayama and Izumo, connecting the San’in and San’yō regions. (Image courtesy of TRAVELER Luxe Traveler Magazine, Ren Xiang)
Izumo is considered the land of the gods. Every October, during Kannazuki (the Month Without Gods), deities from all over Japan gather at Izumo Taisha Shrine by the decree of Ōkuninushi, making it the only month when the gods are present—hence called Kamiarizuki (the Month With Gods). Izumo Taisha is a national treasure of Japan and a famous shrine for matchmaking. Tonight, we rest in the land of the gods, letting the healing waters of Tamatsukuri soothe our body and soul.
Matsue Castle is one of the few remaining original castles in Japan. Its triangular gables are called “chidori hafu,” which is why the castle is also known as the “Plover Castle.” (Image courtesy of TRAVELER Luxe Traveler Magazine, Ren Xiang)
Tottori, the Kingdom of Manga
Tottori, the kingdom of manga, is the hometown of famed mangaka Shigeru Mizuki and Gosho Aoyama. We ride the GeGeGe no Kitaro train, filled with excitement, and disembark at Sakaiminato Station. Along the Shigeru Mizuki Road, we search for his monstrous friends. Back at Yonago Station, the Conan Train comes into view, as if showcasing the strength of the manga kingdom, leading us to Gosho Aoyama’s hometown—Kamiyama Yura Station—where we join Conan and the Junior Detective League in solving mysteries and uncovering the truth.
Tottori’s Sand Dunes of Uradome have been shaped over 25 million years by volcanic and tectonic activity, forming unique and bizarre rock formations. You can take a sightseeing boat around the coastline to explore them. (Image courtesy of TRAVELER Luxe Traveler Magazine, Ren Xiang)