Written by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler’s Report on Ancient Town Rong
A centuries-old authentic Kyoto kaiseki cuisine, awarded two Michelin stars by the French culinary guide, is flawlessly presented in a Taipei five-star hotel—truly a testament to the “one skill, one soul” craftsmanship of renowned chef Takagi Kazuo.
The painting-like “Otsuyu” (eight delicacies platter) is a highlight of Kyoto cuisine. Chef Takagi uses ingredients to mimic chrysanthemums, persimmons, rice ears, and maple leaves, creating an early autumn ambiance. (Photo provided by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler)
Although Taipei has not yet been included in the Michelin Guide, many restaurants and hotels have introduced Michelin-starred chefs from Europe in recent years, so locals are no strangers to Michelin dining. However, when the Far Eastern Plaza Hotel announced its collaboration with Japanese master chef Takagi Kazuo, making it Taiwan’s first Japanese restaurant helmed by a Michelin-starred chef, food connoisseurs flocked there. That’s because Chef Takagi is set to present meticulously prepared, intricate, and exquisitely plated Kyoto cuisine.
Inheriting the Master’s Essence, Reaching New Heights
At 41, Takagi Kazuo specializes in refined Kyoto kaiseki. Since 2007, he has run “Kyō Ryōri – Takagi” in Ashiya, a suburb of Kobe, carefully selecting seasonal ingredients according to the four seasons, attracting numerous political and business elites. The restaurant’s signboard was even personally inscribed by former Japanese Prime Minister Morihiro Hosokawa. So when the first edition of the “Kansai Michelin Guide,” covering Kyoto, Osaka, Kobe, Nara, and surrounding areas, was launched in 2010, “Kyō Ryōri – Takagi” was awarded two stars—and has retained them for four consecutive years.
The lunch set at ibuki features simple yet elegant nigiri sushi presented in a “royal cuisine” style by Chef Takagi. (Photo provided by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler)
Takagi Kazuo’s grandfather and maternal grandfather were both skilled cooks, his father was the head of the banquet department at a hotel, and his mother taught cooking at home. Though his talent runs in the family, even a fine horse needs a discerning eye. The savior was the chef of the prestigious Kyoto ryotei (high-end Japanese restaurant) “Kyōyamato,” Saenoki Mitsugu. When young Takagi, fresh out of high school, wanted to enter the culinary world like any other apprentice, this 86-year-old master who had served royalty including Princess Grace Kelly and 32 international dignitaries saw his exceptional potential and strongly advised him to finish university: “With your talent, you could become a cook now, but if you graduate from university and still want to be a chef, you’ll be an outstanding one.” Little did he know, those words would change Takagi’s life.
Listening to the advice, Chef Takagi not only attended university but also spent a year in the UK studying language. After graduation,
he joined “Kyōyamato” for rigorous training, becoming its deputy head chef at age 29. Only after Saenoki retired did Takagi open his own small 10-seat “Kyō Ryōri – Takagi” in Hyogo Prefecture. Its immense popularity meant reservations often required waiting one to two months. Even his current location in Ashiya, known as the “Beverly Hills of Hanshin,” seats just 31 guests—because the essence of kaiseki must be conveyed through the chef’s transmission of centuries-old refined dining culture to diners, not mass replication.
To ensure authenticity, before partnering, the Far Eastern Plaza Hotel sent three top-tier Japanese cuisine chefs to Japan for three months of intensive training under Chef Takagi to master kaiseki, Michelin-grade preparation, techniques, and processes. Chef Takagi also dispatched his top disciple, Kudo Masakazu, to Taipei to oversee the kitchen. After all, ibuki is the only overseas restaurant bearing Chef Takagi’s name. Both the refined royal-style lunch and the evening kaiseki dishes are a perfect fusion of kaiseki essence and locally sourced, fresh seasonal ingredients.
The Boston lobster with cured fish roe and golden seared topping includes local Taiwanese ingredients like cured fish roe and cilantro that complement the main ingredient’s freshness. (Photo provided by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler)
The Mysterious First Broth, the Soul of Kyoto Cuisine
This is why every dish Chef Takagi serves resonates with the season, but the most important dish is the soup served first—“because the flavor and aroma of the soup represent the chef’s style and the restaurant’s identity.” And what’s the secret behind the “First Broth,” used in nearly every dish? It starts with “ma-konbu” (true kelp), harvested from the Okhotsk Sea off Rausu in Hokkaido, costing ¥8,000 per kilogram, combined with tuna katsuobushi (dried bonito flakes) from Kyushu, which is about 12 times the price of regular katsuobushi. Even the thickness of the katsuobushi is strictly controlled by Chef Takagi—so it sinks naturally into the broth without stirring, preserving the original umami.
So when the appetizer “Sesame Tofu with Caviar, Sea Urchin, and Shrimp Broth Jelly” arrives, although the sticky-textured sesame tofu made from imported Japanese kuzu starch, bracken starch, and white sesame surprises with its richness, the jelly base actually steals the show. The crystal-clear jelly melts in the mouth, releasing a slightly salty yet intensely savory taste from the tip of the tongue—an unexpected contrast that somehow doesn’t clash with the rich sesame tofu. The secret? The tofu itself is infused with plenty of the premium broth.
The “Yuzu Autumn Chrysanthemum Lobster Ball and Mushroom Soup” not only contains the First Broth, but also embodies the four essential elements of traditional Kyoto soup: “First, ingredients like fish or egg that make the guest feel full; second, vegetables or root vegetables; third, green ingredients for color; and fourth, strong fragrance.” So the satisfyingly chewy lobster balls, organic chrysanthemum petals, autumn mushrooms, and freshly grated Japanese yuzu peel fill the bowl with autumn vibes and umami the moment the lid is lifted. The droplets sprayed on the bowl lid are a nod to the samurai-era dining custom—the chef sprinkles them using a secret signal to prevent enemy spies from poisoning the food. Gourmands, take note.
What looks like steamed egg—a sea urchin tofu—is actually a perfectly steamed dish made with broth, soy milk, sea urchin, and lily bulbs. (Photo provided by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler)
In Kyoto cuisine, the “Otsuyu” (eight delicacies platter), though served before the main dishes, is the second-most important course. The term “Otsuyu” refers to interlude dishes that use a variety of ingredients to encourage drinking and conversation among diners while giving the chef time to prepare the main courses. For autumn, Chef Takagi specially prepares Otsuyu including crispy fried crab roll with yuba (tofu skin), beef and vegetable rolls with mustard mayo; chrysanthemum-shaped squid sushi balls echoing the season, salmon sushi balls mimicking autumn persimmons, and intricately carved vinegar-marinated chrysanthemum daikon. The slightly sweet eggplant “dengaku” (grilled skewer) makes the perfect finale. Surprisingly, even the garnish is crafted from sweet potato cut into maple leaf shapes, evoking deep autumn foliage and perfectly expressing the kaiseki ideal of “plating as art.”
The main dish “Boston Lobster with Cured Fish Roe Golden Seared” features lobster meat cut and grilled on a teppan, then returned to the shell. Upon completion, Taiwanese cured fish roe and cilantro are sprinkled on top, highlighting the dish’s freshness with local ingredients. The steamed dish “Sea Urchin Tofu Steamed Egg” goes beyond the First Broth by uniquely incorporating soy milk, sea urchin, and lily bulbs, delivering a silky tofu texture with seafood seasonality.
A glimpse of the entrance to ibuki and the wine cellar corner. (Photo provided by TRAVELER Luxe Traveler)
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