Travel is not about how far you go, but more about your state of mind.
When we re-examine our lives and try to see things from the perspective of an outsider, immersing ourselves in the city with all our senses, you may realize that you don’t really know the city you live in.
Over two years, MINI China has explored travel destinations and new ways of experiencing beauty from an international perspective—not just natural landscapes and cultural architecture, but also the unique insights one can gain from the daily aspects of life in a city, such as food, clothing, housing, and transportation. In familiar places, you can discover unfamiliar, profound beauty, uncovering secrets that have been accumulated over centuries, as if entering a hidden realm.
Take Beijing, for example.
In Beijing, how many ways are there to appreciate the Forbidden City? What shapes will you see when looking down at the Bell and Drum Towers? What interesting places have become history due to cycles of demolition and reconstruction?...
The greatness of Beijing lies in its long history—every brick and tile holds a story. “Secret Spaces” aims to deeply explore the culture hidden beneath everyday urban life. In fact, many people have already explored Beijing using the routes introduced by Secret Spaces. The Secret Spaces team offers a different perspective, which we believe will allow you to more deeply feel the charm of Beijing.
It’s not about time or distance, but the mindset of exploring hidden spaces. Perhaps you’ve lived in Beijing for a long time—try walking the route introduced by Secret Spaces and experience the unique charm of old Beijing. A day is all you need.
Spend a day exploring old Beijing by walking along the ancient central axis.We will use the central axis that runs through old Beijing as our guide, dividing the city into six areas from north to south that represent the unique culture of Beijing. These include the Bell and Drum Towers, Jingshan Park, the Forbidden City, North and South Chizi Streets, Qianmen, and the Temple of Heaven. Through uniquely distinctive restaurants, places that evoke the lingering charm of old Beijing, small shops representing certain cultures, or historical artifacts, we will interpret the city’s essence.
Below is an old central axis travel guide we compiled some time ago.
An eight-kilometer-long, world’s longest and greatest north-south central axis runs through the entire city. The unique grandeur and order of Beijing arise from the establishment of this central axis. ――Liang Sicheng
And the six scenic spots extending from north to south along this central axis still allow you to faintly sense the lingering charm of the ancient city within their grey bricks and tiles. The city is still the city, but by changing the perspective of interpretation, the story-built old Beijing emerges.
The Bell and Drum Towers for Foodies
Nestled under the back-to-back Bell and Drum Towers are rows of old hutongs, where hundreds of years have flowed unnoticed. In these web-like, dusty memories, there is a sense of peaceful daily life and the stability of mundane routines.
Food and desire are fundamental human drives. The Bell and Drum Towers are a must-visit for food lovers. Delicious food can greatly enhance life satisfaction, and the vibrant scene around the Bell and Drum Towers naturally includes a feast for the taste buds. But the true essence of being a foodie here is neither the upscale environment nor the delicacy of rare ingredients—it’s that rustic, unrestrained charm.
Kuan Dian Roast Wings
Kuan Dian Roast Wings is the first eatery on Old Drum Tower Street. Since then, other restaurants and cafes have gradually opened. This street became lively, or perhaps less so, but regardless, the owner persists. Many items in the shop were salvaged during hutong demolitions, filled with memories of old Beijing. Especially recommended are the utensils—enamel basins—where their signature roast wings, along with modern updates like grilled veggies and oysters, are served. The taste is definitely different.
Yao Ji Stir-Fried Liver
Right next to the Bell and Drum Towers, Yao Ji is an unassuming, ordinary little shop. Ever since U.S. Vice President Biden visited, it has become a favorite among foreign diners. But to truly experience the secular flavor of old Beijing, you might have to come here. Here you can try northern Chinese snacks with strong flavors and the distinctive gaminess of offal, which not even all native Beijingers can easily get used to.
Café Sambal
Café Sambal is like a landmark, situated at the start of Doufu Pond Hutong on Old Drum Tower Street.
This Malaysian-style restaurant is tucked away in a courtyard in Doufu Pond Hutong. It is one of the earlier and more representative Malaysian eateries. As soon as you step inside, you can feel the authentic, refined Southeast Asian vibe. Within a rather small space, they strive to create a natural and lively atmosphere. The owner, Old Cao, has very distinct design ideas—the bed bar and hotel 3+1 concepts are his creations. Old Cao is especially fond of old houses, and his designs aim to incorporate post-industrial styles while retaining the original structures. The fusion here is sure to be a hit with foreigners.
Bao Yue Chu Pin
Bao Yue Chu Pin is hidden in Tanggong Hutong and is a true hutong courtyard restaurant. The courtyard was originally an old Beijing shoe workshop owned by the proprietor’s grandfather, which was acquired by “Nei Liansheng” and later exchanged for this space, now transformed into a restaurant. If you have lunch here, warm sunlight streams into the central courtyard, where piles of honeycomb coal sit in the corners. But Secret Spaces recommends coming for dinner—the main dish not to miss is the authentic dàlǔmiàn (noodles with thick gravy). If you’re not driving, try the infused fruit wines. And the best part? With a slight tipsy feeling, step outside the door, and the opposite wall of the hutong is within arm’s reach, bathed in the bright moonlight.
Beijing’s Central Point — Jingshan
For those who have lived in Beijing for a long time, Jingshan Park might feel somewhat solemn. After all, a dynasty once came to an end here. But the desolate autumn wind reveals no mercy from the mountain—perhaps the rise and fall of empires are just fleeting clouds in its eyes. Emperor Kangxi wrote in a poem: “A thousand feet high upon crimson hills, from the imperial chariot one takes in all the rivers and mountains.” Today, Jingshan is the highest point on Beijing’s central axis, offering a unique view.
Wan Chun Pavilion
Only when standing at Wan Chun Pavilion do you truly understand the central axis.
The best times to come up to Wan Chun Pavilion are: early morning, dusk, and late night. Because this is the highest point of old Beijing, and those who truly appreciate the beauty of the city will try to be at its highest point during these three times of day.
Among all the times to visit Wanchun Pavilion, the early morning is undoubtedly the most rewarding. As sunlight spills from the east, illuminating the old city and its people, in that fleeting moment of brilliance, three thousand years of history come alive. And there, before your eyes, lies the Forbidden City — the palace complex with the most rooms in the world.
A corner of Jingshan
The center point of Beijing is not the Forbidden City, nor Tiananmen Square, but here — Jingshan.
Every season at Jingshan has details worth discovering. Every season at Jingshan has corners suited to different people.
In the 12th year of the Shunzhi reign during the Qing Dynasty (1655), Wansui Mountain was renamed Jingshan. After the abdication of the Qing emperor, Jingshan fell into disuse for a time and was often used as a military encampment. It was opened to the public in 1928, and after comprehensive renovations in 1949, it was turned into Jingshan Park. Subsequently, gardens such as the Ginkgo Garden, Crabapple Garden, Peony Garden, Peach Garden, Apple Garden, Grape Garden, and Persimmon Grove were established. The entire park faces south with red walls and yellow-tiled enclosing walls.
Six ways to enjoy the Forbidden City
The empire may be gone, but the ancient city remains. Once the heart of an empire, though the nobility have long since departed, the imperial palace still stands majestic with its red walls and golden tiles, evoking historical awe. No one can stop the passage of time, but those truly great things remain moving even six hundred years later.
Sihexuan in dialogue with the red walls
Restaurant Sihexuan is located by the Tongzi River outside Donghuamen Gate. On summer nights, sit by the large window and slowly sip your drink while admiring the red walls across the river illuminated by lights — history seems to be right before your eyes.
Overlooking the golden roofs from Wanchun Pavilion
This is the best spot to take in the full panorama of the Forbidden City. The grand architectural complex allows you to most vividly sense the prosperity of the former empire. Every season, in all kinds of weather, is worth a visit, especially on winter mornings to watch the sunrise, as sunlight gradually turns the glazed rooftops golden-red.
Admiring the corner towers
Through the cycle of seasons — snow, rain, wind, and sunshine. The corner towers are timeless classics, standing quietly. The magic is this: you may not move, yet it feels as if the towers are in motion; if you move, they seem to stand still again. Your soul and dreams need not be bound. As long as you have a longing for beauty, spread your wings, take flight, and witness how these four corner landmarks of the Forbidden City intertwine and soar through seasons and perspectives. In that instant, you will surely fall in love with the corner towers.
Viewing the Forbidden City at sunset from the rooftop of the Royal Inn
The rooftop terrace of the Royal Inn, tucked away on Beichi Zi, offers a view of the golden glazed tile roofs of the Forbidden City complex. It is especially breathtaking at sunset when the sky is painted with rosy clouds. The terrace even has a large bathtub. Imagine lying in it during a winter dusk, admiring the side roofs of the Forbidden City — it would be a truly unique experience in the world.
Waking up with the Forbidden City in a sightseeing room at Beijing Hotel
On a crisp autumn day, choose to stay in a sightseeing room at Beijing Hotel facing the Forbidden City. Don’t draw the curtains — lie in bed and watch as the Forbidden City slowly awakens from the night.
A stroll along the Tongzi River
The areas along the Tongzi River outside the northeast and northwest corners of the Forbidden City are perfect spots to admire the corner towers. Each season, every hour, and varying weather bring different kinds of beauty, especially after snowfall, when the towers and the river resemble a fairyland.
The absolute hidden gem: North and South Chi Zi
Even true locals might overlook the charm of North and South Chi Zi. This road, only about 20 meters wide and located just steps from the Forbidden City, stretches 921 meters from the corner towers as North Chi Zi, then continues as South Chi Zi for 792 meters, all the way to Chang’an Avenue.
During early mornings or late nights, whether on foot or by car, this stretch is almost entirely empty. The light of dawn or the glow of night lamps yellow the trees, and you’ll realize — this is an absolute hidden gem.
Beijing’s “backbone”: Qianmen
At 39°54′ north latitude and 116°23′ east longitude lies the “main gate” of Beijing, the foremost of the nine gates — Zhengyangmen. Commonly known as Qianmen, this coordinate marks the starting point of Beijing’s “backbone” — the city’s “central axis,” which extends straight north and south.
Today’s Qianmen remains bustling, though it lacks some of the flavor of its past. But if you look closely, you can still uncover the essence of Beijing amid the crowds and dense architecture.
In the Qianmen area, exploring both north and south reveals plenty of sights.
Royal Inn
From North and South Chi Zi to Xianyukou, the Royal Inn incorporates rich cultural elements. What makes the Royal Inn at Qianmen especially unique is its rare open-air swimming pool in Beijing. While relaxing here, you can also take in the key landmarks along the central axis. That alone makes it worth a visit for the view.
Courtyard 23 on Qianmen – Flower Horse Paradise
Courtyard 23 on Qianmen has always been a symbol of the “upper class.” In 1903, architect Sid H. Nealy, representing the U.S. government, built the American Legation here, consisting of five low-rise buildings surrounding a central 3,000-square-meter lawn. It showcased Western neoclassical architectural style and became a landmark in the Dongjiaominxiang area. Today, Hong Kong designer Thomas Chan has given this historic space and its political background an international, commercial transformation, gathering Beijing’s most high-end venues, including world-class restaurants, luxury flagship stores, contemporary art centers, multi-functional theaters, and business clubs.
The restaurant is filled with elements of cultural totems from various ethnic groups: silver plate covers shaped like Tibetan prayer wheels wrap around copper cutlery, pendant lamps inspired by the wooden floor-standing candlesticks of the Jingpo people, and chandeliers that echo the lids of tableware, all drawing inspiration from temples in Shangri-La. In addition, many visitors enjoy slowly appreciating the Yunnan-themed photography exhibits displayed throughout the restaurant. They bathe the entire space in an atmosphere of the highlands.
Ten Paths at the Temple of Heaven
The Temple of Heaven, a sacred site tasked with the important duty of praying to the heavens, naturally carries an imperial grandeur. From the Yongle era of the Ming Dynasty to the Qianlong era of the Qing Dynasty, it took over 300 years to construct, leaving behind a magnificent complex of buildings, such as the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests, which can be considered an iconic architectural landmark of Beijing. However, the most memorable aspects of the Temple of Heaven are not these splendid bricks and stones, but the silent plants that smile in the spring breeze — 3,600 ancient cypress trees that have weathered the ages, as well as the bright and brilliant flowers of spring and summer.
Visiting the Temple of Heaven, the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests and the Echo Wall are just light, check-in experiences, but what truly immerses you here is coming to see the trees and the people. Walking quietly along the ancient cypress path on the west side of the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests, one can’t help but ponder the storms of dynasties past and the clashing swords and armor of ancient battles, evoking a feeling akin to glaciers drifting into dreams. In fact, there are ten such hidden paths in the Temple of Heaven, each worth savoring in turn.
Ginkgo Path
North of the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests. It is an important landscape feature in many scenic areas across China.
Lilac Path
Between the ancient cypress forest on the west side of the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests and the Rose Garden, aside from the lilac blossom season in April, the shape and branches of the lilac trees are also a kind of beauty, especially in early spring when the leaves are just turning green.
Ancient Cypress Path
The cypress trees in the ancient forest are not easily approachable, but the avenue between the East and West Heavenly Gates, located on the western section of the Danbi Bridge, has 26 rows of ancient oriental arborvitae lined up in a row, right beside you.
Danbi Bridge
This is the central axis within the Temple of Heaven. The central stone-paved road is the “Sacred Path,” reserved for the gods and deities of heaven. In ancient times, even the emperor could only walk along the adjacent “Imperial Path.” Nowadays, it has become a popular spot for locals to enjoy the cool.
Pine Forest
Pine forests are scattered throughout the Temple of Heaven, and to the east of the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests, there is a pine tree-lined path formed by trees of various shapes.
Sophora Tree Path
Upon entering the west gate of the Temple of Heaven, the first thing that captures your attention is these two rows of tall, elegant sophora trees, with benches beneath them for people to rest.
Walnut Tree Path
Located in the western part of the Temple of Heaven, the dense foliage is one kind of beauty, while the bare branches in autumn and winter offer another kind of charm.
Locust Tree Path
From Guangli Gate to Fengyuan Gate, a straight locust tree-lined path stretches from east to west.
Forest Trails
The forest area north of the Hall of Prayer for Good Harvests is planted with a variety of trees, each with unique branch shapes. Natural paths form within the woods.
Inner Altar Loop Road
The 4,115-meter-long inner altar wall is accompanied by a loop road, with the best section being the northern part — one side features gracefully curved altar walls, the other showcases trees of diverse forms, making it perfect for strolling, jogging, or simply sitting and enjoying the scenery.
The above is the central axis route experienced by the Secret Places team. One trip may not cover everything, but it will definitely go deep enough.
Secret Places begins with travel, but goes far beyond it.
Secret Places are stories. Secret Places are a way of life. Secret Places are an attitude. Secret Places are vision, and Secret Places are state of mind.
Secret Places are often right by our side. What we want to do is to awaken more quality-driven individuals to explore life, through the small part we’ve already uncovered.
Saplings grow into shade trees over the years, and under their shade, red walls and gray tiles waft with the aroma of tea and food. That fragrance is infused with stubborn persistence — the insistence on putting the world into a cup. Whether the cup holds turbulent waves or calm waters, that is the essence of Secret Places.
Not just Beijing — the editor has also explored other cities. Ningbo, Chongqing, Harbin, Hangzhou, Tianjin, Shanghai, Xi'an, Chengdu… Which one do you like? Let us know in the comments, and you decide which city we’ll feature next.
In the hidden corners of different cities, you might just encounter a different version of yourself.