Pass through the cloud waterfall and breathe freely in the forest's secret trails

Text by Jiang Yureng   Photos by Wang Chenzhi, Zhang Jinrui 'Taoyuan City Government Scenic Area Administration

In autumn, besides admiring the golden mountains of beech trees, head to the Heiwei Giant Tree Grove. Unlike the Lala Mountain Giant Tree Grove, Heiwei is harder to reach, so its forest remains more pristine. There are no railings around the giant trees, allowing hikers to get up close and personal with these towering giants.

A hidden treasure in the deep mountains — the Heiwei Giant Tree Grove
The giant trees here are all red cypresses, totaling 18 trees divided into two groves, with an age of about 2,000 years. Hidden deep in the dense forest, they survived the era when the Japanese heavily logged red cypress. The largest among them is No. 2 Giant Tree, named "Eight Immortals Sacred Tree" because its eight main trunks are tangled at the base. The root system forms a hollow large enough for people to walk through. No. 1 Giant Tree is also unique, with its thick curved branch resembling a flexed bicep, hence locals fondly call it "Popeye the Tree."

The elevation of the Heiwei Giant Tree Grove ranges from 900 to 1,200 meters, making it the lowest-altitude giant tree grove in Taiwan. Since red cypress only grows in cool, moist mountainous areas with source erosion valley collapse landforms — a rare environment worldwide — Taiwan’s terrain and climate are well suited for their growth. Teacher Liao proudly says, “Although Taiwan is a small island, it’s uniquely blessed with huge trees. No matter what, we should never sell ourselves short.”

There are three main trailheads to reach Beichadian Mountain. The route from Sanxia Manyueyuan is the shortest but has the steepest climb; entering from Xiaowulai Kapu Tribe is the gentlest, with the trailhead about 4.5 kilometers from the Heiwei Sacred Tree Grove. The route via Dongman Trail of Dongyan Mountain is also quite popular.

In Dongyan Mountain, discover how beautiful man-made forests can be too
As the name suggests, the Dongman Trail goes from Dongyan Mountain to Manyueyuan, stretching 7.36 kilometers. It was originally a logging-era rail track and log cart path, now part of the Cha Tian Shan National Trail System, with branches leading to Beichadian Mountain and the Heiwei Giant Tree Grove. However, climbing Beichadian Mountain requires applying 15 days in advance, and there are many forks on the mountain — it’s best to go with experienced companions.

For general visitors, it’s recommended to turn back at the fork toward Beichadian, making the one-way trip about 4.44 kilometers. While this means you won’t reach the Heiwei Giant Tree Grove, you’ll pass by the nationally treasured lozenge-shaped Niu grass — an extremely cute parasitic plant found in only two locations in Taiwan. Sadly, its host plant, the sawtooth oak, was toppled by Typhoon Megi in 2016, and scholars worry the lozenge-shaped Niu grass may not survive much longer. So if you want to catch a glimpse, it’s best to go soon.