Generations-old flavors passed down for four generations: the simple delights of Wanhua pork lard rice and Qiezi noodles

Text and photos by /kuni

Lately, I’ve been frequenting Huaxi Street for meals. Whenever friends return from abroad and mention craving Taiwanese flavors, I almost always take them straight to Wanhua or Datong District. Located near the end of Huaxi Street, Yifei’zai was established in the 39th year of the Republic of China (1950). With its simple Taiwanese snack-style decor, a poster of the founder, Hong Shiwen, hangs on the wall—it turns out he’s the husband of the owner’s mother. Including the daughter who helps out, this place is now in its fourth generation.

(The poster and menu on the wall)

(The braised pork I had on my first visit)

What I ate:
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Pork lard rice (NT$20)
Qiezi noodles (NT$30)
Blanched greens (NT$30)
Pork liver (NT$50)
Pork jowl (NT$50)
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This was my second visit—the last time, the pork lard rice wasn’t cooked well, turning out dry and hard with uncooked grains. Today, to my surprise, the soft and chewy white rice paired perfectly with the pork lard, and the flavor of the fried shallots in the sauce was mild yet rich.

The Qiezi noodles were even more delightful—the delicate noodles seemed to swim right off the spoon, incredibly smooth and satisfying. Such simple flavors were utterly addictive, leaving the bowl empty in no time.

(All dishes served)

(Pork lard rice)

(Pork liver)

(Pork jowl)

(The beloved Qiezi noodles)

It reminded me of Pig Lard, the character in the movie “Internal Affairs” who collected rent for Superintendent Lau. His classic line still sticks with me: “I grew so strong just by eating pork lard rice every day” (movie clip)

Yifei’zai Noodle Shop
Address: No. 230-1, Section 2, Guiyang Street, Wanhua District, Taipei City
Phone: (02) 2388-0579
Hours: 07:00–20:30 Mon–Fri; 09:00–16:00 Sat
 

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