I’ve always been someone easily moved by the scenic moments in films. Many years ago, while watching “Happy Together,” I kept seeing scenes from Argentina. Even then, I knew that one day, I would set foot on Argentine soil.
Coincidentally, the route I eventually chose to explore is very similar to the one in the film: it includes Buenos Aires, Iguazu Falls, and Ushuaia. And to go all out, I even had dinner at the restaurant where Tony Leung’s character worked in the movie, “Bar Sur,” and watched an authentic Argentine tango performance there.
Just as Li Yao-hui says in the film, there aren’t many Chinese people in Argentina. That day when I was at Bar Sur, the restaurant was already packed, and we were the only table of Chinese guests. The place was smaller than I’d imagined, with somewhat dated decor. The small round table was really a tight fit for a dinner. But since the real attraction wasn’t the food but the tango, squeezing in to eat Argentine cuisine was still a joyful experience.
Fiery Tango
First up was the tango music performance. Three musicians played the accordion, piano, and cello. The trio's performance instantly immersed the audience in classic Argentine culture. Then came some duets, solo accordion pieces, and vocal performances. I love music, especially live music, because seeing the musicians perform with such passion makes it easier to be moved by the melodies.
After the tango music warmed things up, the tango dancers finally took the stage. In traditional tango performances, the men wear sharp suits and the women don sexy dance dresses. They glide across the checkered dance floor, skillfully moving in the dim, intimate space. The accompanying tango music shifts between tender and urgent, while the chemistry between the dancers continues to build. I think there's something contradictory about this dance—on one hand, their movements are flirtatious, almost cheek-to-cheek embraces, their lips nearly touching, yet their faces show no warm smiles. Instead, their brows are furrowed, exuding a sense of weariness and melancholy.
That’s when I began to appreciate the charm of watching tango in the compact space of Bar Sur—you can feel the performers' emotions more intimately and experience the dramatic atmosphere more intensely. Watching those kicks and exposed thighs swaying just above the male partners’ waists is truly electrifying. After all, the art of seduction may reach its peak when it teeters between resistance and invitation.
Everyday Tango
If you think the cover charge at “Bar Sur” is too high and decide not to watch the show there, you can head to the La Boca district. La Boca is a working-class neighborhood in Buenos Aires, the birthplace of soccer legend Diego Maradona. Since tango was once considered entertainment for the poor, many street performers like to set up their own stages here. Though it’s just street performance, the level of dedication is no less serious—even in summer, dressed in sharp suits and drenched in sweat, the dancers remain professionally immersed. You can really feel how important tango is to the grassroots of Argentine society.
Exploring La Boca is a delight. Aside from the many street tango shows, the area’s colorful tin-roofed houses are another highlight. The famous Caminito area is also located here, with attractions clustered together—you can browse local markets and enjoy Argentine flavor in the cafes. I’ve always preferred visiting the more grassroots areas of a place during my travels, as it allows for a more genuine and in-depth understanding of the local culture. However, it’s worth noting that this area is said to have relatively higher crime rates, so extra caution is advised when sightseeing here.
Bar Sur Website
http://www.bar-sur.com.ar/
Argentine Travel Information (
Official Language: Spanish (
Currency: Argentine Peso (Pesos)
Visa: Exempt for SAR passport or BNO holders
Enquiries: Argentine Consulate in Hong Kong 2523 3208
Text & photo: Henry Lo @旅．攝
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Originally published on RoadShow 路讯网:
http://www.roadshow.hk/2013/09/05/%E8%B7%9F%E6%A2%81%E6%9C%9D%E5%81%89%E5%8E%BB%E9%98%BF%E6%A0%B9%E5%BB%B7/