The Dream Train Departing from the Far East
Legend has it that there is a dream train – the Orient Express, sailing through fantastical journeys to reach the land of dreams. Perhaps the Trans-Siberian Railway is the track of that dream train, stretching from a place in the Far East called Vladivostok, through icy wilderness, endless forests, crystal-clear ancient lakes, timeless old towns, century-old architecture, all the way to the heart of the Iron Curtain – Moscow. Crossing nine time zones, eight towns, seven days of travel, six train rides… A journey shared by two becomes one of the most dreamlike railway trips of a lifetime. Over the 9,288-kilometer journey, the train’s unhurried pace makes for the most perfect way to reach the destination, and everything along the way… …
Everything begins in Vladivostok, a city in the Far East named after the lowlands abundant in sea cucumbers. This is one of the battlegrounds for sovereignty between China and Russia. Over a hundred years ago, Tsarist Russia seized this naturally ice-free, strategically important port from the then-weakened Qing government. After years of transformation and development, the Vladivostok of the past has become today’s Vladivostok, which only carries the flavor of Russia. Yet strangely, there are no traces of China to be found here, but plenty of Japanese and Korean influences. Whether at border checkpoints, restaurants, or even on the sides of buses, Korean script can be seen everywhere – perhaps because North Korea is just too close by.
In truth, winter in Vladivostok doesn’t offer a wealth of tourist attractions. We took a brief rest at the airport before catching the first airport express to the train station. After spending a day exploring the city, we boarded an evening train to the next destination. Though the short day trip didn’t include many sights, we visited quite a few unique places.
To the right of the church stands a real submarine, the WWII hero C56, whose crew bravely sank 10 enemy ships and heavily damaged 4 others. After retirement, its mission didn’t end – it was repurposed as a submarine museum along the shores of Vladivostok.
This is truly a paradise for military enthusiasts. For just 10 Hong Kong dollars, you can step inside this authentic submarine to learn about its story and structure. Entering the submarine, the walls are lined with photos, images, and text materials. Though it’s a pity that the Russian text is mostly indecipherable, passing through the circular pressure hatch into the control room leaves you awestruck by the precise and intricate controls. Countless valves, pressure gauges, telescope tubes, and more are all on display. Even if you’re not a military enthusiast, these instruments are fascinating – let alone how excited a military buff might be.
From the control room, passing through another circular door leads to the captain’s quarters, which include the captain’s sleeping cabin, a resting table and chairs, and a room resembling an observation deck. Beyond the captain’s quarters lies the crew’s cabin, used not only for rest but also for firing torpedoes. Here, actual torpedoes are displayed, with one even disassembled to reveal its internal structure and design. Additionally, the launcher demonstrates both the ready-to-fire and post-door-closed launch states. True, the submarine isn’t very large, but it offers a genuine glimpse into what a submarine looks like. Surrounded by authentic machinery, equipment, and objects, being inside feels like stepping onto the battlefield of a bygone era, strongly evoking the glory of the Russian navy.
C56 Submarine Museum
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Exterior of the C56 Submarine Museum
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Thankfully, the long walk had mostly digested our lunch, so on New Year’s Eve, we decided to feast heartily to ring in the year. Upon entering, we were greeted by a sweetly smiling Korean woman. With every dish we ordered, she would simply nod with a smile. In the end, we ordered beef brisket, beef bone soup, a mixed grill platter, potato pancakes, beer, and Korean rice wine. Every dish exceeded our expectations – perhaps because we hadn’t tried much Korean food before, but this was the best Korean cuisine I’d ever had. A blessing in disguise, the long walk allowed us to dine until 8 PM. Online, we’d learned that around 8 PM, the beautiful waitresses transform into musicians and singers, performing North Korean songs and Russian tunes. These women must have been carefully selected elites. Though we only glimpsed a superficially glamorous side of North Korea, for over two hours, we were immersed in its atmosphere. Due to time constraints, we left reluctantly, strolling slowly back to the train station to begin our dream train journey.
Reflecting on those fleeting two hours, we found ourselves missing them deeply. What must the “defectors” fortunate enough to leave North Korea and enter this dazzling, chaotic world feel when they put down their iPhones and return to that closed-off country? Perhaps these are the memories that sustain them, or maybe they’re the memories that ruined their lives. Either way, these hard-earned days are surely among their happiest, and I hope they cherish every moment. Likewise, we are among the luckiest “lifted-out-of-poverty” souls in this world – we must treasure what we have.
The train slowly pulled into the station. Braving the bitter cold, we searched for our carriage. Only after boarding did we realize our ears were nearly frozen. Once settled, the train gradually departed for the journey to Birobidzhan.
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Siberia’s Blue Eye – Lake Baikal (Trans-Siberian Railway Travelogue)
The Dream Train – The Trans-Siberian Railway
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