When most people in Hong Kong talk about Nagasaki, their impression often revolves around the atomic bombing by the U.S. military during World War II, which led to Japan’s surrender. In fact, since the late Edo period, Nagasaki has been Japan’s only trading port, engaging frequently with foreign countries. Influenced by Dutch and Chinese cultures, and with its mountainous terrain, most urban and residential areas were built on slopes, creating a cityscape unique with its slopes and stairways.
Nagasaki and Hong Kong share many similarities — both are international ports and both are mountainous with limited flat land. These common traits led to both cities, along with Monaco, being named among the world’s new top three night view spots in 2012. The famous night view spot in Nagasaki is located on Mount Inasa in the western part of the city. However, from May 7, 2015, to February 5, 2016, the cable car to Mount Inasa was suspended for maintenance. Although shuttle buses were available as an alternative, I chose another night view spot during my visit to Nagasaki: Mount Nabekanmuri (なべかんむりやま).
Getting to Mount Nabekanmuri, located in the southern part of Nagasaki City, is not difficult. First, take the electric tram from JR Nagasaki Station to Ishibashi Station, then transfer to the bus bound for Glover Garden (グラバー園), which will bring you close to your destination. It takes only about five minutes from the final bus stop to the starting point of the hike.After taking the mountain lift, you can enjoy a view of Nagasaki Port from halfway up the mountain. If you prefer not to hike too strenuously, this spot offers a decent place to take night view photos.
The signs leading to the mountaintop observation deck after the lift are very clear, making it easy for visitors to find their way without worrying about getting lost. However, the path goes through residential areas, so it's best to keep noise levels down to avoid disturbing residents, and also to watch out for any cats by the roadside.
As a port city, Nagasaki also has a thriving shipbuilding industry, and the sound of announcements from the shipyard can be heard at sunset.
As the sun sets behind the mountains, its light outlines the silhouette of Mount Inasa’s peak. Seeing those transmission towers still stirs a sense of unresolved longing in me — next time I visit Nagasaki, I must climb up there to capture another angle of the port’s night view.
In Hong Kong, bridges are usually named after the places they connect — for example, the Tsing Ma Bridge connects Tsing Yi and Ma Wan, hence its name. But this all-white cable-stayed bridge in Nagasaki’s fjord is called the Goddess Bridge, which suits its graceful aura (smile).
You never know who, after saying goodbye casually, you’ll truly never see again. Seventy years ago, in a single moment, an atomic bomb fell on this city, taking countless lives. From the ashes of that devastation, the people of Nagasaki rebuilt their city. At dusk, Nagasaki Port becomes resplendent, with its urban sprawl visible from near to far — all the fruits of efforts to heal the wounds of past mistakes.
The eastern hillside is also dotted with residences, where the soft glow of scattered lights weaves together a plain yet beautiful night scene.
Mount Nabekanmuri is only one-third the height of Mount Inasa, but the view of Nagasaki Port from here has a different charm. The hiking route is easy, and you can take your time appreciating the unique local houses along the way, without the crowds of tourists — making it a worthy member of Japan’s night view heritage.
Photos from this trip have been compiled in this album: Kyushu . West Japan . 2015, on Flickr. Feel free to check it out if you’re interested.
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Fai Redefined
A night view enthusiast.
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