Kyushu is located at the southernmost part of Japan and, compared to other major cities on Honshu, is less bustling; yet it has nurtured a unique culture and history. In Japanese mythology, the place where the heavenly grandson descended is said to be Miyazaki in southern Kyushu; in modern history, the Satsuma Domain of Kyushu played a very important role in the final years of the shogunate and the Meiji Restoration. This edition’s Mojiko is situated at the northernmost tip of Kyushu and, geographically, faces Honshu across the only 600-meter-wide Kanmon Strait. It was once a very important port city.
In the past, the Kanmon Strait between Honshu and Kyushu was only connected by ferries. People would generally pass through Mojiko to get to Shimonoseki, which also had ferry services to Busan in Korea (a Japanese colony in the early 20th century). The western side of the strait connects to the Seto Inland Sea, an industrial hub of Japan, so the Kanmon Strait could be called the economic lifeline of southern Japan. Mojiko also became a prosperous town due to its strategic location.
To strengthen the railway connection between Honshu and Kyushu, the Kanmon Tunnel was opened in 1944. Since then, people no longer needed to go through Mojiko to reach Honshu but could instead travel via Mojiko Station, which is located about 5 kilometers from Mojiko, to get to Shimonoseki. Mojiko Port gradually lost its status as a passenger hub. The situation worsened further when the Sanyo Shinkansen was extended to Hakata in 1975. The role of the Kyushu passenger hub shifted to Hakata and Kokura, and Mojiko Port thus transformed into a place mainly focused on tourism.
To get to Mojiko, one typically transfers from Kokura Station to the Kagoshima Main Line. Even taking a local train only takes about fifteen minutes. As Mojiko is located at the northernmost tip of Kyushu, Mojiko Station was once the starting point of the Kyushu Railway. At the end of the tracks inside the station, there is a foundation stone marked with “0 km” of the Kagoshima Main Line. Many parts of the station retain a nostalgic design, such as the old-style “駅” (station) character used on the signage; unfortunately, on the day of my visit, the station was under renovation, and the outer entrance was enclosed by hoardings, preventing a closer look.
The Kyushu Railway Memorial Museum is a highlight of Mojiko and a must-visit for any railway enthusiast like me. The museum displays several special trains in a semi-open-air area. Among them, the KiHa 07 diesel railcar – KiHa 07-41 – is the museum’s prized exhibit. It is an electric train manufactured in 1937 by Nippon Sharyo. Visitors can certainly go inside the carriage, but stepping onto the wooden floorboards causes them to creak, a reminder that this vehicle is much older than any of us.
The museum doesn’t have too many visitors, and the staff don’t really have much work to do. However, the souvenir shop cashier was busy organizing bills and invoices, carefully counting the money when making change. By Hong Kong standards, one might grow impatient, but this is Japanese etiquette – and it’s something worth experiencing during your travels.
Bananas are an ordinary food in our daily lives, but for Japan a hundred years ago, they were a rare imported item not produced locally. During the Taisho era, most bananas in Japan were imported from Taiwan. As Mojiko was the trading port geographically closest to Taiwan, merchants – in order to prevent bananas from ripening too quickly and to turn a profit as soon as possible – made Mojiko a distribution hub for bananas in Japan, leading to the establishment of banana auctions (バナナ叩き, banana-tataki).
Mojiko – Former Mojiko Mitsui Club
Mojiko – Kitakyushu Municipal International Friendship Memorial Hall
Mojiko also goes by another name: the City of Nostalgia. In Mojiko, it’s not hard to spot Western-style buildings, all constructed around the 1910s to 1920s during the Taisho era. After the Meiji Restoration, Japan underwent further Westernization. As an important port city along the Kanmon Strait, Mojiko had many nostalgic buildings that once served as headquarters for shipping companies, forming the nostalgic district of Mojiko. Nowadays, most of these buildings have been repurposed into restaurants, art galleries, or community facilities. Rather than leaving them unused, this approach attracts more tourists and doesn’t exclude local residents, reflecting Japan’s emphasis on regional development.
The Mojiko Retro High Mart is situated on a street corner that offers a sweeping view of the surrounding area. The nostalgic district also features a building designed in the Western architectural style, which differs from typical apartments. Its rooftop is a popular spot for visitors, where one can enjoy a breathtaking panoramic view.
The Mojiko Retro Observatory is located on the 31st floor and offers a 270-degree view overlooking the Kanmon Strait and the westernmost tip of Honshu. The sunset over the Kanmon Strait, with Honshu on the far side of the sea, is a spectacular sight. But such beautiful scenery comes at a cost. This nearly 30-story high-rise stands out like a sore thumb among the many old buildings of Mojiko. Originally planned to be only 15 stories tall, the Mojiko Retro High Mart was later extended to its current height, disrupting the historical ambiance and hindering the preservation efforts of the area.
Initially, some believed that this high-rise would clash with Mojiko’s landscape. The top-floor observatory was only made available to the public after the city of Kitakyushu purchased the space. Architecture and urban planning are indeed closely intertwined.
This was the last day of my trip in Kyushu before heading to Hiroshima on Honshu.
Original Location: Kyushu Sanyo Trip (Part 7) – Experience the Romance of the Taisho Era – Mojiko
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