KAIKADO is a century-old shop specializing in tea caddies—those airtight containers designed to keep tea leaves fresh and dry.
I’d heard they’d opened a coffee shop in Kyoto? Everyone reacted with the same surprise. To me, coffee and tea seem like symbols of modernity versus tradition. Though coffee has a long history, it only arrived in Japan relatively recently—not as deeply rooted as tea.
Tea is often associated with Kyoto in many people’s minds. But every time Shami visits Kyoto, she doesn’t seek out matcha sweets—she hunts for coffee shops. June 23 was my birthday, and I always treat myself to a trip for some self-care. That year, I was working in Osaka, spent a few days in Kagoshima, and then chose to head to Kyoto just before my birthday for a solid two-day break. My plans depended on the weather, but unfortunately, it rained that day, so I ended up going to KAIKADO for coffee first. Even worse, it was closed for the day, so I returned the next morning—the last day before I left Kansai. Of course, I wouldn’t let my birthday go uncelebrated; almost every year, I visit a coffee shop to mark the occasion. Last year, I hit up several cafes in Taipei in one go.
Following the map, I walked here from the Super Hotel in Gojo—it took about 10 minutes. The same goes if you’re coming from Kyoto Station. The location is great, perfect for a quick rest before heading back.
When you think of Kyoto cafes, traditional machiya townhouses come to mind. But KAIKADO didn’t opt for a setting that might better match their image; instead, they set up shop in a somewhat 1970s-style concrete building. Floor-to-ceiling windows make it look like a European street-side café from the outside.
The interior is simple and clean, with no unnecessary or overly ornate decorations. The wooden furniture is bright and calming. There are no intrusive pillars, so the space feels open. Along the counter, there’s a row of single seats facing the street, while the window side has four-seat tables. When I arrived, the single seats weren’t cleared yet, and the window seats were taken, so I chose a four-seater table near the cashier.
I was wearing a striped top and dark green shorts, paired with an oversized backpack holding my MacBook Air. I felt out of place here—the other customers all seemed to exude a slightly spaced-out vibe, uniformly dressed in light-colored tops, looking relaxed. Meanwhile, I carried the tiredness of a long day of work. It was my first time feeling this way.
Not long after I walked in, a man entered, ordered, and pulled out his laptop to work. At least there was someone even less fitting for the vibe than me.
Push the door to the right of the counter to step outside—perfect for a relaxing break if the weather’s cooler.
The single seats along the counter.
Naturally, I ordered a cup of coffee here. The coffee cup is quite special—it’s an Asahi-yaki piece, costing at least 11,000 yen.
The coffee uses beans from Tokyo’s Nakagawa Wani Coffee, a well-known brand for pour-over beans in Japan. Drinking pour-over is a different experience from espresso—you have to wait patiently, as each cup is carefully brewed by the barista. Temperature control and technique matter, and there’s no rushing. The beans are also stored in KAIKADO’s handmade tea caddies and kettles.
For non-coffee drinkers, tea is an option—their Tamaryokucha Yagane is highly recommended by the staff.
They open at 10:30 AM. I arrived at 11, and the staff recommended the red bean toast. She said the paste is homemade, not too sweet, and the toast is crispy on the outside with a soft, fluffy center. The staff member knew a bit of English and asked where I was from. She was curious that a Hong Konger knew about the place—most of their regulars are Taiwanese. She also mentioned there’s a Taiwanese part-timer working here, but sadly, she was off that day, or else we could’ve chatted.
The tea caddies are displayed near the counter. The staff said I could pick them up and feel their texture, getting a sense of how they’re made. Back in Hong Kong, I’d probably only be able to admire them from afar, feeling like I didn’t belong. But in Japan, I realized these seemingly high-end products are actually quite approachable.
About KAIKADO
Established in the 8th year of the Meiji era, Kyoto’s KAIKADO is Japan’s oldest shop specializing in handcrafted tea caddies. Their caddies feature no external coating, relying instead on the material’s silk-like texture and soft luster that deepens with use. KAIKADO uses tinplate imported from Britain and still adheres to over 130 meticulous handcrafting steps—all done manually. This dedication has kept KAIKADO standing strong in an ever-changing world.
Address: 352 Sumiyoshi-cho, Kamigyo-ku, Kyoto (Upstairs from Kawaramachi-dori, Nana-jō)
Hours: 10:30 AM–7:00 PM (Last order 6:30 PM)
Access: 10-minute walk from JR Kyoto Station
Website: http://www.kaikado-cafe.jp/