Iceland felt incredibly far away to me, someone who had never set foot in Europe before. I’d heard it was one of the most expensive countries in the world, and that its weather was wildly unpredictable. It seemed appealing, yet it never made it onto my travel radar.
That all changed when I learned about the Laugavegur Trail, one of the world’s top 20 hiking routes, which convinced me to finally explore this land of ice and fire. On June 14, 2017, just after completing the 10-day Tour du Mont Blanc in France, I finally set off for Iceland. To save money, I bought seven days’ worth of food in France, planning to “self-cater” in Iceland. I relied mainly on hitchhiking for transportation, used a tent as my home, and aimed to be self-sufficient to keep expenses low.
When I left Keflavík International Airport, while other travelers headed to the bus stop, I chose to walk to the first fork in the road leading away from the airport, hoping to hitch a ride there. Although I’d been told beforehand that hitchhiking in Iceland wasn’t too hard, I was still nervous—especially as it began to rain, making me wonder if I’d made a mistake. Fortunately, within fifteen minutes, some kind-hearted Icelanders gave me a lift to the capital, Reykjavik. Upon arriving, my first move was to find a bookstore and buy a hiking guidebook for the Laugavegur Trail. Then I started walking toward the outskirts of the city, planning to camp somewhere random and head to a roadside spot the next morning to continue hitchhiking.
The next morning, I packed up and began heading to Landmannalaugar, the starting point of the Laugavegur Trail. To be honest, this leg of the hitchhiking journey wasn’t easy—Landmannalaugar is a famous Icelandic tourist destination with few locals around. Driving in requires a 4WD vehicle, so most visitors take buses. There weren’t many cars on the road. Though I managed to get a few rides, they didn’t take me very far until a Belgian couple on a road trip generously drove me all the way to Landmannalaugar.
Along the way here, an Icelandic driver told me that Landmannalaugar was the most beautiful region in all of Iceland—and that it might even be the most beautiful place in the world. His words might have been a bit exaggerated, but they certainly built up my excitement. Once I started walking the Laugavegur Trail, I realized he wasn’t exaggerating at all. Last year, I chose to hike the Pacific Crest Trail in the U.S., partly because of its diversity—you cross deserts, snow mountains, forests, and volcanoes over 4,000 kilometers in four and a half months. The Laugavegur Trail offered something similar, and though it’s only 55 kilometers long, it still gave me that sense of dramatic change. Starting from Landmannalaugar, the first day was dominated by colorful volcanoes—different minerals painted the ground and hills in vivid hues, and snow on the peaks added even more beauty. In several spots, steam vents released bursts of warmth, filling the air with a mineral-rich scent that made the area feel otherworldly.
As the elevation increased, so did the amount of snow. The environment transformed into an endless snowy plain. Walking across what seemed like a never-ending snowy expanse was tough and exhausting—but also completely different and memorable. Just on the first day, I experienced two totally distinct landscapes.
On the second day, when I left the snowy area, I entered what looked like a green planet. But upon closer inspection, the green had black undertones—the hills were actually made of dark soil, and the green wasn’t grass, but moss. Stepping on the moss, I could feel its springiness. When I lifted my foot, the compressed part bounced right back, showing just how thick and supportive the moss was—it easily held my weight. Touching it didn’t feel gross at all; it was more like stroking a soft wool carpet, incredibly pleasant.
By the third day, I reached a vast plain again—but instead of snow, it was covered with strange rocks and black soil. If not for the distant snow-capped mountains, I could have easily believed I was on the moon. This day also involved fording rivers two or three times, which was a bit annoying, but it was an experience you don’t often get in Hong Kong’s hiking trails. After finishing the third day, other hikers pointed out a nearby canyon called Markarfljótsgljúfur and suggested a short day hike there after setting up camp. I hadn’t expected much, just looking for something to fill the time—but the sight of the canyon left me speechless. I haven’t been to the Grand Canyon in the U.S., so I can’t compare the two, but even this relatively shallow (about 200 meters deep) Markarfljótsgljúfur, with its uniquely Icelandic style, impressed even seasoned international hikers.
After completing the 55-kilometer Laugavegur Trail, many hikers choose to take a bus out from there. But the nearby Skógar Trail that follows is also quite remarkable. Though only 29 kilometers long and involving a climb of nearly 900 meters up to Fimmv&au...
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