The weather was not as expected
Due to our previous night bus experience, we were worried about not being able to sleep well on the bus and having to catch up on sleep the next morning — a lose-lose situation. So we hired a private car from Yazd to Shiraz, including stops at the tombs of the kings and Persepolis along the way. On the morning we left Yazd, the temperature was extremely cold, and a thin layer of ice had formed on the surface of the water pool. Slowly, it began to rain — no, it was actually snow.
After leaving Yazd, the snowfall intensified into heavy, goose-feather-like snow. Visibility gradually dropped to almost nothing, and with the icy roads making driving very slippery, we had to slow down. To go straight toward Shiraz, we needed to cross a major mountain after leaving Yazd.
Not long after starting the climb, we encountered a line of cars parked on the side of the road. Most people had stopped to decide whether to continue up the mountain or to put tire chains on if they were proceeding. Then Ali said maybe I should turn back. After considering my options, I realized that turning back would mean no time to visit Persepolis, so I asked if continuing was still possible. He simply replied, “Why not?” And so, in the freezing cold, we had to get out of the car to dig away the ice, lay down the chains, and secure them. Whenever they weren’t aligned properly, we had to start all over again. Since only the driver and I were men, we helped each other get the chains on. After more than half an hour of this, government snow-clearing vehicles suddenly arrived to open the road, and we had to take off the chains we had just put on — what a wasted effort. In the end, due to a car accident up ahead that had caused a vehicle to overturn, we were stuck in traffic for two hours. Once we got down the mountain, the weather cleared up, and Ali, realizing we were pressed for time, skipped lunch entirely and sped all the way. The distance between Yazd and Persepolis is truly vast — even driving non-stop in a private car takes several hours.
By the time we reached Pasargadae (the ruins of the Persian palace), it was already past three in the afternoon. We could only take a quick photo from afar before hurrying off. We arrived at the Tomb of the Kings around four. According to the ticket seller, Persepolis was not allowing entry after four. Undeterred, not wanting to miss both, we quickly browsed the wall reliefs at the Tomb of the Kings and then, on a whim, told Ali, “Let’s try going to Persepolis. If not, we can come back tomorrow.” After getting out of the car, we hurried to the ticket office, only to find that it actually closed at 4:30. Just in the nick of time, we stepped onto the giant stairs of Persepolis. The entire complex is built into the mountainside, with the palace resting atop massive stone foundations. To reach Persepolis, one must first walk up a long flight of stairs.
The Gate of All Nations and the Guardian Beast
Like pilgrims of Persia’s glorious era, we walked step by step toward the gate of Persepolis. At the top of the stairs, you can see the magnificently towering Gate of All Nations, standing over ten meters high. On either side of the gate are carvings of a mythic beast with the body of a bull, the head of a man, the wings of an eagle, and the horns of a griffin. This divine creature guards the entrance. Looking back, the grand avenue leading into Persepolis spreads out before your eyes — a sight of overwhelming grandeur. One can only imagine the wealth and manpower required to construct such a magnificent structure thousands of years ago. No wonder there was once a saying, “The Persian Empire was the wealthiest nation under the sun.” Such wealth required immense power. Reflecting on history, the Persian Empire began as a small nomadic tribe but grew into the most powerful empire of its time — the first great empire in human history. Representing the wealth and might of this empire, which ruled Central Asia for over two hundred years, was Persepolis. It was built by Darius the Great after he ascended to the throne, launching military campaigns to suppress rebellions and expand the empire. Under his rule, the Persian Empire reached its greatest territorial extent and most glorious chapter. Persepolis was built to commemorate his many victories.
The Processional Way and the Guardian of Wealth
Also due to the strength of the Persian Empire, at the beginning of each year — the spring equinox — various vassal tribes and nations would come to offer New Year greetings. This grand scene is depicted in the wall carvings of Persepolis. Passing through the Gate of All Nations, there is a long Processional Way, with corridors flanked by statues of griffins — creatures with the heads of eagles and bodies of lions. These powerful beasts of the earth and sky are another guardian deity of Persia, primarily protecting wealth. This guardian later spread to ancient Greece and then into mainland Europe, also becoming a symbol of wealth protection and even appearing on national emblems. As a result, these statues can be found in many places, including at Persepolis in Iran, on the logo of Iran Air, in ancient Greek mythology, European museums, and even on the flag of Latvia.
The Hundred Column Hall and the Persian Legions
At the end, facing the Gate of All Nations from afar, there is an unfinished gate with a base of horse-bodied columns. Historians suggest that its construction may have been interrupted due to war. Turning right at the unfinished gate leads to a field of ruins, where towering stone columns of varying heights stand. Some have completely disappeared, some are reduced to their bases, some retain parts of their shafts, and others still show their full original height. From the height, thickness, and density of the columns, one can imagine how massive the structures must have been. Between the Gate of All Nations and the grand buildings lies a large open area, now used to display column remnants, but in ancient times, it was likely a grand plaza. Envoys from various nations, after entering through the Gate of All Nations, were guided by Persian officials through the gate, across the plaza, and then to the grand structure — the Hundred Column Hall. On either side of the hall’s entrance are statues. The upper level depicts images of Persian emperors and envoys being introduced, while the lower part is divided into five levels, each featuring ten soldiers. Together with the matching figures on the opposite side, they total one hundred soldiers — perhaps symbolizing that the soldiers were the hundred pillars supporting the palace, or representing the pillars of support under the Persian emperor. Regarding the Persian legions, legend speaks of a formidable and feared special unit — the Persian Immortals. The more common belief is that this elite force consisted of ten thousand soldiers, hence the alternate name — the Immortal Army. If any soldier died or fell ill and could no longer fight, they were immediately replaced to maintain the unit’s strength at ten thousand and preserve morale. This unit not only protected the king but was also deployed for special operations. Perhaps the wall carvings depict these so-called Persian Immortals.
The Audience Hall and the Pilgrimage Imagery
Beyond the Hundred Column Hall lies the Audience Hall, where in ancient times, grand delegations from various nations would wait to be led by officials before being presented to the King of Kings — the Persian emperor — to offer their tributes and treasures. There were as many as thirty nations or ethnic groups that came to pay homage and present gifts. This scene is immortalized in the wall carvings on the stairs leading into the Audience Hall, serving as evidence of Persia’s might. First, you see the carving of a lion biting a bull — the bull represents the old season, and the lion symbolizes spring, signifying the arrival of renewal and the changing of the seasons. The Persian emperor was the ruler of all nations and peoples, the King of Kings of the world. On this important day, envoys from each ethnic group or nation brought their unique tributes and treasures to celebrate and pray for everlasting prosperity. Each delegation was led by an official of their own people, who would hold the hand of the first envoy as a gesture of goodwill. Behind them were envoys carrying offerings, and later generations have used the clothing and gifts of these envoys to deduce which nation or ethnic group they represented. The delegations were separated by cypress trees. Among the more commonly recognized groups were the Babylonians, Indians, and Africans from Libya.
Some of the Delegation Groups:
Central Asian Delegation – Babylonians
The Babylonian delegation wore small conical hats resembling Christmas hats, long robes, leather shoes, and carried gold and silver bowls, lace textiles. Similar Babylonian woven carpets can be found in Saint Petersburg, Russia. They also offered a water buffalo.
Anatolian Delegation – Lydians
The Lydian delegation, full-bearded and wearing horned hats like pastry buns, brought a distinctive gift — a gold bracelet engraved with a griffin, precious vases, and horses.
Central Asian Delegation – Gandharans
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Central Asian Delegation – Bactrians
Barefoot, wearing head coverings, and accompanied by Bactrian camels, this Central Asian group from Bactria also brought gold bowls. Gold bowls appear to have been a common language and relatively universal tribute item of the time, similar gifts can be seen among the Babylonians and Medes.
European Delegation – Scythians
These are the pointed-hat Scythians, all with long beards. They wore typical Scythian clothing and trousers, with short swords at their waists and leather boots on their feet. Though they had no written language, they excelled in metallurgy and jewelry-making. Thus, the envoys wore golden garments and carried gold bracelets as tribute. They also offered fine horses, coats, and trousers.
Indian Delegation – Indians
Officials in long robes, barefoot Indians in shorts and bare torsos carrying spices, as well as donkeys as offerings.
African Delegation – Libyans
The delegation included three individuals, all with typical African curly hair. Two of the representatives wore shoes, while the third was barefoot. Their gifts were round clay bowls, curved ivory tusks resembling scimitars, and an animal — the okapi, a close relative of the giraffe. These gifts were distinctly African in character.
Audience with the King – Darius I
Holding a scepter in one hand and flowers in the other, with the longest beard among them, the Persian king—Darius I—is seated on his throne. He leads the attending officials to approach the great Persian emperor, covering his mouth with his hand as he reports what tributes the envoys have brought. The gesture of covering the mouth is to avoid any saliva or breath affecting the king. Behind the king are attendants and soldiers.
The Fall of an Empire
From these carvings, we can see that envoys came from the three continents of Europe, Africa, and Asia, showing just how glorious and powerful the Persian Empire was at the time. Yet, no matter how magnificent, even the most dominant empire must eventually meet its end. Exiting the Audience Hall, next to it is the palace of Darius I. This palace is one of the better-preserved structures. In the soft glow of the setting sun, Persepolis begins to return to its silent slumber. Occasionally, a few figures stand silhouetted against the ruins of Persepolis. As the most brilliant testament to ancient Persia’s millennia of history, even in ruins, such a magnificent site makes humans feel so small. But when humans are the creators, perhaps they can stand as equals to these wonders.
Balance
This miraculous palace was destroyed by a single blaze of rage—unleashed by the army of Alexander the Great of the Macedonian Empire. After a three-year siege, Persepolis finally fell. To avenge palaces that had once been burned, Alexander set fire to both Pasargadae, symbol of imperial power, and Persepolis, the pinnacle of Persian glory. All that once was turned to scorched earth, and the past splendor vanished forever. The flames of hatred reduced human treasures to nothing.
A Spring That Never Came
Persepolis is truly enormous. Beyond the palace complex lie other ruins such as the Treasury Hall, but time waits for no one. I hurried through and climbed up the hill behind to take in the full view of Persepolis. As the evening light faded, the site gradually turned red, then yellow, then grey, and finally black—sinking once more into endless night. Silence returned, silence that lasted millennia. Light will come again after the dark, but when dawn breaks, the old city remains. The Persian people still wait—but will never see the spring of tribute from all nations again.
Night fell, the cold wind blew, and we shouldered our packs once more, passing through the Gate of All Nations before descending the steps. What had arrived in glory departed with mixed emotions. Glancing back once more along the avenue, the night lent Persepolis an even deeper sense of melancholy. Farewell, Persia—farewell to the once most glorious empire under the sun.
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