RAW's autumn menu features a dish called "Duck Eats Duck?" which turns out to be a mix of grains and duck meat.

▲ A very interesting and creative dish: "Duck 'Eats' Duck."

Reported and photographed by Huang Shih-yuan, Taipei

Glocalization, meaning Global & Localization, is a trend in international cuisine in recent years. Just like New Nordic cuisine that took the world by storm a few years ago and the rising South American cuisine of late, both combine French culinary techniques with local terroir. RAW, which has always incorporated Taiwanese flavors into its dishes, also explores this concept in its autumn menu. It uses ingredients such as abalone from South Africa and trout salmon from Alaska, but also integrates locally rooted Taiwanese elements like grilled corn on the cob, preserved beans (puli), and mango shaved ice. The result is a set of "Taiwanese-flavored" dishes crafted from global ingredients.

As usual, André Chiang does not give any names to RAW’s dishes. Each dish consists of three main elements — they could be ingredients, sauces, or ideas he wants to convey. But as you eat each dish, amidst the layers of textures and flavors, you’ll find familiar tastes and sensations — sometimes childhood memories or the flavor of mom’s cooking.


▲ "Grilled Corn 'BBQ Sauce'"

The first appetizer, "Grilled Corn 'BBQ Sauce'," features baby corn wrapped in fresh corn kernels, sprinkled with sesame seeds. Although it’s all corn, it offers completely different textures.


▲ "Abalone 'Autumn Bamboo Shoots' 'Three-Cup Basil'"

The second dish is "Abalone 'Autumn Bamboo Shoots' 'Three-Cup Basil'." This dish combines Taiwan’s signature Three-Cup Sauce with a Western pesto, skillfully integrating Taiwanese flavor. The pairing of bamboo shoots and abalone creates a contrast between soft and crispy textures. It’s topped with caviar, garlic slices, and fresh Thai basil.


▲ "Green Onion 'Onion' 'Leek'"

The third dish is "Green Onion 'Onion' 'Leek.'" Knowing that many Taiwanese don’t like the taste of scallions, the chef created a delicious scallion-based dish. The bottom layer is a purée made from leeks, zucchini strips, and smoked shark meat. The middle layer features Japanese pearl onions cooked in apple juice, then drizzled with Italian red wine vinegar, followed by Hokkaido sea urchin, and finally topped with chives. When eating, scoop up multiple ingredients at once to experience the distinct layers and contrasts.


▲ "TACOS, TAKOS, T-A-C-O-S"

The fourth dish draws inspiration from Mexican tortillas (TACOS). The ingredient names on the menu are also playful: "TACOS, TAKOS, T-A-C-O-S." The Mexican tortilla is replaced with a Taiwanese scallion pancake, then infused with the concept of Japanese takoyaki, featuring a onsen egg, bonito flakes, nori, and shredded cabbage. The final T-A-C-O-S stands for the acronym of the sauce ingredients.

The fifth dish is "Duck 'Eats' Duck," another fun creation. The RAW chef mixes grains such as corn, Job’s tears, and red quinoa, which ducks typically eat, with duck breast, leg meat, heart, and tongue. Some ingredients are boiled, others fried. When served, the dish is topped with a drizzle of concentrated duck liver soup. The server recommends taking a sip of the plain duck liver soup first, then gradually mixing in the various ingredients from the side of the plate to discover different surprises.


▲ Made a small snack using leftover fish skin and belly — not on the menu.


▲ "Trout Salmon 'Turnip' 'Puli'"

The sixth dish is "Trout Salmon 'Turnip' 'Puli'." This dish uses puli, a traditional Taiwanese ingredient, paired with trout salmon, which is rarely eaten in Taiwan. The salmon is gently poached until melt-in-your-mouth tender, then served with crunchy pickled melon and pickled white radish slices. Since it would be a shame to only eat the fillet of the large trout salmon, the leftover skin and belly were used to make a little extra snack — the skin is deep-fried and the belly is seared, then sprinkled with cauliflower, and the chef recommends trying this snack before the salmon fillet.


▲ "Charred Tomato 'Mole Sauce' 'Smoked Cassava'"

The seventh dish is "Charred Tomato 'Mole Sauce' 'Smoked Cassava'," a dish with Mexican flavors. It braises beef cheek with charred tomatoes, red onions, onions, and Mole sauce. Finely ground 85% dark chocolate from Pingtung — which won an award at the 2015 World Pastry Championships — is sprinkled directly on top. The cassava chips are made from sago, with a bit of cheese and spices, giving them a mildly spicy flavor.


▲ "Ice 'Snowball' 'Mango'"

The final dessert is "Ice 'Snowball' 'Mango'," accompanied by meringue crisp and milk crisp. In the center is a snowball made of egg white, hiding a very Taiwanese-style mango shaved ice. It’s paired with flash-frozen milk ice, creating a light and refreshing mouthfeel.