A beloved spot among Kyoto office workers: skewers and oden that hit the spot!
Photos & Text by Nathan Yung
Japanese food travel guides often feature Kyoto. The busiest street in Kyoto is undoubtedly “Shijo.” Whenever I walk down this street, I see many tourists discussing and looking around as they walk—it’s clear they’re struggling to decide which restaurant to eat at. Western tourists often hold a guidebook, constantly looking up and down, while Taiwanese tourists tend to stand in front of the shop menu, deliberating repeatedly. Honestly, I just can’t understand it. Kyoto is an old city, offering traditional, authentic flavors, Western-style eateries, and emerging modern food culture. The intersection of old and new offers so many choices, yet I see tourists at a loss for what to eat. Sometimes I feel like rushing over to take them to dinner myself. Because right where they’re standing, hidden gems are just around the corner. Though I often struggle with my own choices too, I’m more focused on what Kyoto food category I still need to document for my food map, how much stomach space I have left, and how many people I can get to check in on Facebook. Yes, your trip leader is a bit naughty.
April 5, 2016. That day, I had just left Kansai Airport, went straight to Kyoto to drop off my luggage at a pre-booked Airbnb, and then headed to a small shop I hadn’t had time to visit on previous trips to Kyoto—“Sumibi q<鸟 ちゃぶや”，这可是京都路地里人气串烧小店，隐藏在巷弄之间，客人几乎都是日本在地上班族！这次趁第一天到赶快来踩店，这一带小店多，是上班族晚上下班后的好去处，虽不若东京新桥站附近热闹，但也别具风格，一条小小的巷子隐藏几间好店。
However, the reason I hadn’t been able to visit on previous attempts was either because it was fully booked or, unluckily, the shop was temporarily closed. This time, I faced the same issue—fully booked. I lingered outside the door several times, watching the busy staff. Finally, one had a moment to come out. I was afraid I’d be told they weren’t accepting customers, but luckily, they told me, “Please wait ten minutes.” My wish finally came true. There was no way I could resist—the charcoal-grilled skewers, with sauce dripping onto the charcoal and filling the air with fragrance, are so aromatic you can smell it even from a bit down the alley. Even if you aren’t hungry, you will be. How could I not come explore?
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Aside from skewers, I was surprised to find they also offer chicken sashimi and oden, and even rice dishes. Now I was in trouble—how should I order? I could only glance at what the nearby Japanese customers were ordering. Suddenly, something caught my eye—I spotted a bowl of grilled chicken rice and immediately decided to order one. Then I got one or two of each type just to try the flavors.
▲ Richly flavored sauce, with a slightly crispy exterior. The aroma alone makes your mouth water.
▲ The soup that comes with the grilled chicken rice is made from chicken bone broth—savory and rich.
One downside of this place is that skewers must be ordered at least two of the same kind at a time. That means if you order chicken hearts, it’s two skewers—150 yen each, so 300 yen total. It’s best to go with friends to share, or if you’re alone, just pretend you have friends. Or you can ask the trip leader to join you—that’s definitely a good solution.
▲ Salt-flavored skewers. Aside from saucy skewers, salt-flavored ones really test a shop’s dedication to ingredient quality and the chef’s grilling skill.
▲ Grilled chicken skin—my favorite. They give you plenty, and it’s great. Slightly charred, it has a nice crisp texture, not soggy at all.
▲ Chicken breast
I ordered chicken innards, chicken skin, and chicken breast—three types from the outside in. These three are key factors in deciding whether a skewer shop is worth a return visit. Yes, I’m not just here to fill my stomach, but also to analyze these delicious spots for future write-ups.
Trip leader Nathan sincerely recommends it. Although you have to order at least two of the same skewer, the price per single skewer is only slightly more than the typical 100-yen skewers—you can start from 120 yen. It’s truly affordable B-grade cuisine.
▲ Oden—must-try basics are daikon radish and tofu. To understand the shop’s skill, you should at least try these two. The radish is well-seasoned, not mushy inside, and the broth is clear yet flavorful. Add the slightly seared tofu, and its silky texture will have you eating piece after piece without stopping.
Want to eat Kyoto food? Just tell the trip leader your preferred flavors and budget. My Japanese food list can get you to spend every last penny—and getting to know me is genuinely dangerous.
Shop Info:http://www.chabuya-honten.com/karasuma/shop.html
Sumibi q<鸟 ちゃぶや
0604-8155, 310-3 Uchidete-yamachi, Muromachi-dori, Nishiki-koji Higashi-iru, Nakagyo-ku, Kyoto
Tel: 075-255-1393
Hours: 6:00 PM – 1:00 AM (next day) ※ Please check the official site for temporary closures
Access: 3-min walk from Hankyu Karasuma or 3-min walk from Subway Shijo Station
Average Spend: 3000 yen
Trip Leader Review:
Location: ★★★☆☆
Deliciousness: ★★★★☆
Atmosphere: ★★★☆☆
Service Attitude: ★★★☆☆
Reasonable pricing: 4 stars
Willingness to revisit: 4 stars
Author: Nathan Yung 'Japan Gourmet Travel Intelligence
Nathan Yung, leader of "Japan Gourmet Travel Intelligence," has since 2012 self-funded and invested millions, using Taiwanese culinary taste as a foundation and Japanese cuisine as inspiration. With an extraordinary palate talent, he has traveled across Japan, sampling its delicacies. In Taiwan, he also tirelessly reads and cooks hands-on. He is currently compiling his experiences into a book, scheduled for release by the end of 2016.
For more Japan travel information, please see
Japan Gourmet Travel Intelligence 'Facebook Fan Page
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