Among the six ancient towns of Jiangnan, Tongli is not particularly bustling. The town is surrounded by water on all sides, with every household by the water and accessible by boat. As a result, there are many ancient bridges in this relatively small town—making it the perfect place to experience the authentic charm of “small bridges, flowing streams, and quaint homes.” (Photo/HowToTrip user Shuigong’s album on Huaban)
Upon entering Tongli, you’ll cross a bridge, probably the largest one in town. A poem praises Tongli as having “ancient bridges and clear waters that intoxicate the mortal world.” Stepping into Tongli gives you a feeling of enchantment.
Tongli’s restaurants are built along the river, with towering trees lining both banks. Though the weather may be hot, in Tongli you can still dine by the river, sitting in a rattan chair, enjoying the breeze, and gazing at the sky through white walls and grey tiles.
Many people are drawn to Tongli by Gu Changwei’s promotional video *A Thousand-Year Encounter, Love Returns to Tongli*. That once-in-a-millennium encounter takes place in the “Through-the-Heart Lane.” Here, the true meaning and beauty of an encounter are embodied—“traversing a thousand years, just to meet in this lifetime.” This encounter is truly breathtaking.
Tongli’s Three Bridges take on a special charm in the rain. The bluestone bridges and dark grey tiles are washed especially bright by the rain, while raindrops create gentle, dense ripples on the river. The feeling of the ancient town in the rain is fresh and natural, and the summer rains of Jiangnan add a touch of coolness.
Tongli is home to a very beautiful white bark pine, a tree species usually found only in the north and extremely difficult to grow in the south. Yet this white bark pine has thrived here for hundreds of years.
The restaurant with its old barrel-shaped rice and earthenware jars may have a humble entrance, but the interior is clean and bright. Sit by the window overlooking the water, where the opposite wall is decorated in the style of a guesthouse, covered with handwritten messages. You can order Tongli’s signature Zhuangyuan Pig Trotter and the shop’s specialty Preserved Vegetable with Bamboo Shoots—all for just 58 yuan.
Tongli’s Tuisi Garden is a famous garden in Jiangnan. Its owner, Ren Lansheng, an official of the Qing Dynasty, named it with the line “Taking the name Tuisi (Retreat and Reflection) in hopes of atonement; the plants and trees of Pingquan are appreciated together.” Hence the name Tuisi Garden. Perhaps the most quintessentially Jiangnan feature of Tuisi Garden is its mottled white walls covered in creeping vines.
If you stay overnight in Tongli, you can get up early and head to the grand theater. Whether they’re actors or opera enthusiasts, some will be singing Kunqu Opera here. A few elderly people stand and listen below. Even if you don’t understand the words, the scene carries a unique classical charm.
Instead of wasting time at home on the weekend, why not spend it in a small town in Jiangnan, encountering those wonderful sights and moods?
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You can see more beautiful views of Tongli through HowToTrip user Shuigong’s album on Huaban,click to browse.
This article is from the fashion and lifestyle magazine *Huaban・Life Journal*. You can also subscribe via the “Huakan” section“Huakan”in the bottom navigation bar of the Huaban WeChat public account huabanwang.