Where do Nara’s deer come from? Their ancestors walked hundreds of kilometers from Kasuga Taisha.

▲The gate of Kasuga Taisha.

Reported and photographed by Jiayun Yeh, journalist

Situated in Kashihara City, Ibaraki Prefecture, Kasuga Taisha is just a short drive from Narita Airport, making it a popular first destination for travelers visiting Ibaraki. Hidden among the woods, the shrine offers a tranquil environment, and its red gate appears even more majestic against the lush green backdrop. Within this historic shrine with a thousand-year legacy lie many little-known tales unfamiliar to most visitors.

▲The harmonious contrast of red and green creates a truly serene view.

The 2011 Great East Japan Earthquake (3.11 Earthquake) left an indelible scar on the hearts of all Japanese people. During the disaster, many historical buildings, heritage sites, and cultural landmarks were affected. The torii gate of Kasuga Taisha—the head shrine of over 600 Kasuga shrines nationwide—also collapsed in the quake. Its fall held special significance for the Japanese, as this shrine is dedicated to Futsunushi no Kami, the deity who protects Japan from earthquakes.

▲ Kasuga Taisha is dedicated to the deity Futsunushi no Kami.

The collapse of Kasuga Taisha’s torii gate caused an uproar across Japan, with some questioning the shrine’s divine power. However, local residents believed that without Futsunushi no Kami’s protection, casualties could have been even higher given the earthquake’s intensity. They viewed the torii’s collapse as the deity taking the disaster upon itself to shield the people. In 2013, Kasuga Taisha rebuilt the torii using cedar wood.

▲The reconstructed torii gate.

After passing through the gate, you might wonder, where is the main hall? Another unique feature of Kasuga Taisha is that its main hall is not located at the center but rather to the right, facing south. Since Kasuga Taisha is situated in Kashihara City—Japan’s easternmost point on the map—the main hall’s position makes it one of the first places to see the sunrise. This has led to the belief that praying for life’s “firsts” at Kasuga Taisha is especially efficacious.

▲ Kasuga Taisha attracts worshippers from all over.

When it comes to deer, Nara might be the first place that comes to mind. But Kasuga Taisha’s forested grounds are also home to deer. However, due to past incidents of deer “escaping,” they are now restricted to designated areas.

Interestingly, the deer at Nara’s famous Kasuga Taisha originally came from here. In the past, people transported sacred objects on the backs of over 100 deer, leading them from Kashiga to Nara. But during the Edo period, the deer from Kashiga suddenly ran away, prompting the retrieval of a few from those previously sent to Nara.

▲Deer at Kasuga Taisha are not deliberately dehorned.

Walking through Kasuga Taisha, from the sturdy torii gate and grand gate to the solemn main hall and the endless serene woods—from purifying your hands at the temizuya before approaching the main hall for prayers—each step naturally calms and centers the mind. If you’re tired of the city’s hustle and bustle, take a stroll through Kasuga Taisha, breathe in the fresh, pure air, and travel with the energy of blessings.

▲The forest at Kasuga Taisha is perfect for a peaceful walk.

Kasuga Taisha
306-1 Kashihara, Ibaraki Prefecture, Japan